SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 37

8•4 Driveshafts

30 Refit the inner wing liner, then the
roadwheel and bolts.
31 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and
tighten the driveshaft nut to the specified
torque.
32 Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the
specified torque, and refit the wheel
trim/centre cap, as applicable.
33 Note: The vehicle must not be brought

back into service for at least one hour, to allow
time for the driveshaft locking compound to
harden.

1 A kit containing all of the components
needed when renewing the driveshaft gaiters

can be obtained from Saab dealers.
2 Refer to Section 2 and remove the
applicable driveshaft.
3 Referring to the Inspection sub-section of
Section 2, remove the circlip and tripod joint
from the inboard end of the driveshaft.
4 Remove the remaining clip from the inboard
gaiter, and slide it off the driveshaft. Remove
both clips from the outboard gaiter, then slide
it along the length of the driveshaft, and
remove it from the inboard end.

5 Thoroughly clean the driveshaft and joint
components, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent. If the gaiters are being renewed due
to wear or damage, assume that the CV and

universal joints need re-packing with grease

as a matter of course.
6 Take the opportunity to examine the CV and
universal joints for early signs of wear; refer to
Section 2 for guidance.
7 Fit the first rubber gaiter over the inboard
end of the driveshaft. Slide it along the shaft to
the CV joint, taking care not to damage the
sealing surface. Pack the CV joint with grease
of the correct grade, from the service kit.

Caution: Do not allow grease to
come into contact with the

paintwork, or discolouring may
result.

8 Secure the gaiter over the CV joint and the
driveshaft with clips.
9 Fit the second gaiter to the inboard end of
the driveshaft, and secure it in place with a
clip.

10 Slide the tripod joint onto the splines of

the driveshaft, and refit the circlip. Pack the

gaiter with grease from the service kit.
11 Support the driveshaft with one hand, and
pivot the steering swivel member towards the
vehicle. Guide the tripod joint into the
universal joint cup, ensuring that the rollers
can slide freely in their grooves. Seat the gaiter
squarely over the universal joint, then secure it
in place with a clip.
12 Refit the suspension strut to the steering
swivel member, and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque; refer to Chapter 10 for
details. On vehicles with ABS, remember to fit

4.7a Remove the four bolts, and free the

bearing bracket from the engine block

the wheel sensor cable bracket onto the lower
strut mounting bolt.

13 Press the brake hose into the clip on the

strut body.
14 Fit the inner wing liner in position, and
tighten the retaining screws.
15 Refit the roadwheel and bolts, then lower
the vehicle to the ground.
16 Tighten the roadwheel bolts to the correct
torque, and refit the wheel trim / centre cap, as
applicable.

Removal

Pre-1994 model year vehicles

1 Disconnect the battery negative cable, and
position it away from the terminal.

2 With the vehicle parked on a level surface,
apply the handbrake and chock the rear
wheels. Slacken the right-hand roadwheel

bolts, then raise the front of the vehicle, rest it

securely on axle stands and remove the
roadwheel; refer to "Jacking, towing and wheel
changing
for guidance.
3 Referring to Chapter 10 and the relevant
paragraphs of Section 2 for guidance, unbolt
the strut lower mountings, then pivot the
steering swivel member away from the vehicle,
to separate the right-hand driveshaft from the
intermediate driveshaft at the inner universal

joint. The outboard end of the right-hand

driveshaft need not be removed from the
wheel hub; use a length of wire or cable-ties to
support the inboard end - this will keep it away
from the working area, and also prevent the
CV joint from being strained. Cover the
separated halves of the universal joint with
plastic bags, to prevent the ingress of dirt.
4 Refer to Chapter 1 and slacken the auxiliary
drivebelt.
5 Remove the lower alternator mounting bolt,

then slacken the upper mounting bolt, and

pivot the alternator away from the engine.
Retighten the upper mounting bolt to hold the
alternator in position.

6 Remove the clip from the dust cover on the

4.7b Using a suitable adapter, attach a

slide hammer to the bearing bracket at the

alternator mounting hole, and tap the entire

bearing/driveshaft assembly off the

gearbox output shaft splines

intermediate driveshaft, at the differential
housing.

7 Remove the four bolts, and free the bearing
bracket from the engine block. Using a
suitable adapter, attach a slide hammer to the

bearing bracket at the alternator mounting
hole, and tap the entire bearing/driveshaft

assembly off the gearbox output shaft splines
(see illustrations). Alternatively, a soft-faced
mallet may be used - tap on the rear of the
bearing bracket to draw the driveshaft off.

Avoid using excessive force, as the bearing

may be damaged.

8 Support the driveshaft as it nears release, to

prevent it from dropping onto the floor. Note

the position of the O-ring seal on the gearbox
output shaft; recover and discard it, as a new
one must be fitted on reassembly.

Post-1994 model year vehicles

9 Disconnect the battery negative cable, and

position it away from the terminal.
10 To avoid damage when the engine is
raised, it is recommended that the following
procedures are carried out:

a) Disconnect the exhaust front pipe from

the manifold, referring to Chapter 4A for

guidance.

b) Remove the crankcase ventilation hose

from the clips on the camshaft cover.

c) Remove the engine torque arm bracket;

refer to Chapter 2A for more details.

11 With the vehicle parked on a level surface,
apply the handbrake and chock the rear

wheels. Slacken the right-hand roadwheel
bolts, then raise the front of the vehicle, rest it
securely on axle stands and remove the

roadwheel; refer to "Jacking, towing and wheel

changing for guidance.

12 Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the front
section of the inner wheel arch liner.
13 Working at the right-hand side of the

vehicle (and referring to Chapter 10 and the
relevant paragraphs of Section 2), unbolt the
lower strut mountings, then pivot the steering
swivel member away from the vehicle, to
separate the right-hand driveshaft from the

intermediate driveshaft at the inner universal

joint.

Driveshafts 8•5

4.20 Intermediate driveshaft bearing

bracket (post-1994 model year vehicles)

A Upper mounting bolt

B Lower mounting bolts
C Screw for power steering hose clip
D Oxygen sensor harness connector

14 The outboard end of the right-hand

driveshaft need not be removed from the
wheel hub; use a length of wire or cable-ties to
support the inboard end - this will keep it away
from the working area, and prevent the CV
joint from being strained.

15 Cover the separated halves of the
universal joint with plastic bags, secured with
elastic bands, to prevent the ingress of dirt.
16 Remove the single bolt that secures the
intermediate bearing bracket to the mounting

on the subframe.
17 Unbolt the engine earth cable from the
connection on the cylinder head. Unbolt the
engine lifting eye from the opposite end of the
cylinder head. Transfer it to the earth cable
mounting hole, and bolt it in position.
18 Fit a lifting beam transversely across the
engine bay, ensuring that the legs rest
securely in the sills on the inner wings.
19 Engage the jib hook with the engine lifting
eye, and raise the engine and gearbox just
enough to separate the intermediate bearing
bracket from the mounting on the subframe.
Note: If a lifting beam is not available, an
engine hoist can be used instead. However,
take care when the engine is raised, as a floor-
standing hoist will tend to pull the engine
towards the front of the vehicle.
20 Remove the screw from the clamp that
retains the power steering hydraulic fluid pipe
at the bearing bracket (see illustration).
21
Remove the two lower bolts that secure
the intermediate bearing bracket to the engine
block (refer to illustration 4.20). Note that these
bolts also retain a mounting bracket for the
oxygen sensor connector.
22 Remove the upper retaining bolt (refer to
illustration 4.20), and draw the support bearing

bracket off its guide pins and away from the
engine. If the bracket sticks on the guide pins,
carefully prise it off.

23 When the bracket is free, pull the

intermediate driveshaft off the splined gearbox

output shaft. If the shaft sticks, tap the bearing

bracket from behind with a soft-faced mallet

4.25 Note the position of the O-ring seal

(arrowed) on the gearbox output shaft

to free it - do not use excessive force, as this
may damage the bearing.
24 The driveshaft is sleeved with an
aluminium pipe that has rubber seals at each
end; it can be removed by simply twisting and
pulling it away from the bearing bracket.
25 Note the position of the O-ring seal on the
gearbox output shaft (see illustration);
recover and discard it, as a new one must be
fitted on reassembly.
26 Lower the driveshaft and intermediate
bearing bracket assembly away from the
vehicle.

Inspection

All models

27 Clean all traces of old grease from the
universal joint cup, using paraffin or a suitable
solvent.
28 Examine the roller grooves in the cup for
signs of wear, in the form of scuffing or
scoring. If evidence of wear is found, the cup
must be renewed.
29 Examine the intermediate bearing
assembly for wear - excessive axial or radial
play, or any roughness in rotation, indicates
that it is in need of renewal. The assembly can
be dismantled into its basic components,
which can then be renewed individually.
However, this procedure requires access to a
bench-mounted hydraulic press, and is

therefore deemed to be beyond the scope of
this manual. Hence, it is recommended that
the intermediate bearing be renewed as
complete assembly.

Refitting

Pre-1994 model year vehicles

30 Ensure that the universal joint cup is
completely clean, then pack it with suitable
grease.
31 At the differential housing, fit a new O-ring
seal on the gearbox output shaft in the same

position as the original seal, and check that
the dust cover is correctly seated.
32 Before refitting the intermediate bearing
bracket, insert the inner lower mounting bolt
into its hole, as access to it is difficult once the
bracket is in place on the engine block.
33 Check that the bracket locating dowels

4.45 Fit the intermediate shaft over the

gearbox output shaft splines, by rotating

the two shafts against each other until they

are felt to engage

have not been damaged, and are still correctly
aligned.
34 Lubricate the gearbox output shaft splines
with a smear of molybdenum-based grease.

Align the intermediate driveshaft with the end
of the output shaft by twisting the two against
each other, until the splines are felt to engage.
Tap the edge of the bearing bracket with a
soft-faced mallet, to drive the intermediate

shaft over the output shaft.
35 Align the bearing bracket with its mounting
holes on the engine block. Insert the remaining
bolts, but only hand-tighten them at this stage.

36 Slacken the upper mounting bolt, and

pivot the alternator back towards the engine.
Fit the alternator lower mounting bolt through

the bearing bracket.
37 Tighten the bearing bracket bolts to the
correct torque, then tighten both alternator

mounting bolts.
38 Fit a new clip onto the driveshaft dust

cover, at the differential housing.
39 Re-engage the right-hand driveshaft with
the intermediate driveshaft, and refit the
suspension strut mounting bolts, referring to
Section 2 and Chapter 10 for details.
40 Refer to Chapter 1 and check the tension
of the auxiliary drivebelt, adjusting it as
necessary.
41 Reconnect the battery negative cable.

Post-1994 model year vehicles

42 Ensure that the universal joint cup is
completely clean, then pack it with suitable
grease.
43 Slide the aluminium sleeve over the
driveshaft, and seat it securely in the

intermediate bearing bracket.

44 At the differential housing, fit a new O-ring
seal on the gearbox output shaft, in the same
position as the original seal.
45 Offer up the shaft and support bearing
assembly to the engine block. Fit the

intermediate shaft over the gearbox output
shaft splines, by rotating the two shafts
against each other until they are felt to engage
(see illustration). Push the shaft on as far as
possible by hand, then tap the bearing bracket

with a soft-faced mallet to push the shaft
through the remainder of its travel. This will

8•6 Driveshafts

4.49 Insert the bolt that secures the

bearing bracket to the mounting on the

subframe

also allow the bearing bracket to align it with
its guide pins and mounting holes.

46 Refit the bearing bracket upper mounting

bolt.
47 Refit the two bearing bracket lower
mounting bolts, ensuring that the oxygen
sensor connector bracket is correctly refitted.
Fit the screw that secures the power steering
hydraulic hose clamp.
48 Re-engage the right-hand driveshaft with
intermediate driveshaft universal joint, referring
to Section 2 for guidance. Ensure that the
rubber gaiter fits squarely over the joint, then fit
a new clip to secure it in place. Refer to
Chapter 10 and refit the suspension strut lower
mounting bolts. On vehicles fitted with ABS,
remember to fit the wheel sensor cable bracket
to the suspension strut lower mounting bolt.
49 Insert the bolt that secures the bearing
bracket to the mounting on the subframe, and
tighten it to the specified torque (see
illustration).

50 Refit the inner wing tiner and tighten the

retaining screws; refer to Chapter 11 for
details.
51 Refit the roadwheel, and hand-tighten the
bolts. Lower the vehicle to the ground, and

tighten the wheel bolts to the specified
torque.
52 Lower the lifting beam jib hook, then

unbolt the engine lifting eye and move it back

to its original position at the opposite end of
the cylinder head, bolting it in place. Bolt the

engine earth cable to the vacated mounting
hole.
53 Refit the engine torque arm bracket,
referring to Chapter 2A for guidance.
54 Fit the crankcase ventilation hose into the
clips on the camshaft cover.
55 Refer to Chapter 4A and reconnect the
exhaust front pipe.
56 Reconnect the battery negative cable.

Chapter 9 Braking system

Contents

Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - general information . 19
Anti-lock braking system (ABS) components - removal and refitting 20

Brake fluid - level check See Chapter 1
Brake fluid - renewal See Chapter 1
Brake pedal - removal and refitting 17
Front brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 5
Front brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting 7
Front brake pad - condition check See Chapter 1
Front brake pads - renewal 3
General information 1
Handbrake - checking and adjustment 13
Handbrake cables - removal and refitting 14
Handbrake lever - removal and refitting 15

Handbrake "ON" warning light switch - removal, testing and

refitting 16

Hydraulic pipes and hoses - renewal 9
Hydraulic system - bleeding 2
Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting 10
Rear brake caliper - removal, overhaul and refitting 6
Rear brake disc - inspection, removal and refitting 8
Rear brake pads - condition check See Chapter 1
Rear brake pads - renewal 4

Stop-light switch - adjustment, removal and refitting 18
Vacuum servo unit - testing, removal and refitting 12
Vacuum servo unit non-return valve - removal, testing and

refitting 11

Specifications

General

Brake system type and layout:

Footbrake

Front brakes

Turbo models to 1987, and non-Turbo models to 1989:

Discs:

Type Ventilated
Outside diameter 278 mm
Thickness (new disc) 23.5 ± 0.2 mm

Minimum thickness after grinding 21.5 mm
Maximum grinding depth (each side) 1.0 mm
Maximum runout 0.08 mm (with disc fitted)
Maximum variation in disc thickness 0.015 mm

Calipers:

Make Girling

Type Colette 54

Piston diameter 54 mm

Pads:

Friction material thickness:

New 16.7

mm

Minimum 4.0 mm

Diagonally-split dual hydraulic circuits; front right/rear left primary) and
front left/rear right (secondary). Outboard discs fitted front and rear,

ventilated at the front. Single-piston,sliding calipers fitted front and
rear. Anti-lock Braking System ABS) fitted as an option on certain
models, with individual circuits for front wheels and single circuit for
both rear wheels. Non-ABS models vacuum servo-assisted, ABS
models hydraulic servo-assisted. Traction control system fitted as
option on certain models, integrated with ABS

Dual-cable, lever-operated, acting on rear discs

Degrees of difficulty

Handbrake

9•1

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