SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 36

7B•4 Automatic transmission

Chapter 2B, release the transmission from the
mounting at the subframe by slackening and
withdrawing the through-bolt; recover the
dished washer, noting its orientation.
31 Position a lifting beam across the engine
bay, locating the support legs securely in the
sills at either side, in line with the strut top
mountings. Hook the jib onto the engine lifting
eyelet and raise it, so that the weight of the
engine is taken off the transmission mounting.
Most people won't have access to an engine
lifting beam, but it may be possible to hire one.

Alternatively, an engine hoist may be used to
support the engine, but when using this

method, bear in mind that if the vehicle is
lowered on its axle stands to adjust the
working height, for example, then the hoist will
have to be lowered accordingly, to avoid
straining the engine mountings.

32 To allow the transmission to be lowered
out of the engine bay, the left-hand section of
the front subframe must be partially unbolted
and lowered; the following paragraphs
describe this procedure.
33 At the front crossmember underneath the
radiator, slacken the pivot link through-bolt,
then remove the two link retaining bolts (refer
to Chapter 7A, illustration 8.27).
34 At the front left-hand corner of the
subframe, remove the two retaining bolts (refer
to Chapter 7A, illustration 8.27).
35 Slacken the through-bolt at the pivot link
in the rear crossmember, below the steering
rack, then remove the two retaining bolts; one
of these bolts also retains the steering rack.
Note the orientation and order of assembly of
all washers removed (refer to Chapter 7A,
illustration 8.27).
36 At the rear left-hand corner of the
subframe, remove the four retaining bolts that
pass through the mounting bracket for the
suspension lower arm rear bearing. Recover
the bearing plate beneath the mounting
bracket, noting its orientation (refer to Chap-

ter 7A, illustration 8.27). As the lower arm
bearing is released, tie the rear of the
suspension arm to the vacated bolt hole in the
subframe, using a cable-tie - this will prevent
the front bearing from being strained.
37 Support the subframe as the last retaining
bolt is removed, and allow it to pivot
downwards to the end of its travel. Withdraw
the front and rear pivot bolts, and remove the
left-hand side of the subframe from the
vehicle.
38 With reference to Chapter 8, separate the

left-hand driveshaft from the transmission, at

the inboard universal joint.
39 Work around the circumference of the
transmission-to-engine mating surface, and
remove all but the uppermost retaining bolt.
40 Position a jack underneath the
transmission, and raise it to take the weight of
the unit. Check that nothing remains
connected to the transmission before
attempting to separate it from the engine.
41 Remove the last retaining bolt from the
mating surface, and pull the transmission
away from the engine. This involves
simultaneously pulling the transmission away
from the engine block locating dowels, whilst
disconnecting the intermediate driveshaft from
the differential - a task which should only be
attempted with the help of an assistant. If
difficulty is experienced at this stage, refer to
Chapter 8 and remove the intermediate
driveshaft and bearing bracket from the engine
as an assembly, before progressing any
further.

Warning: Maintain firm support of

the transmission, to ensure that it
remains steady on the jack head.

42 When all the locating dowels are clear of
their mounting holes, lower the transmission
out of the engine bay using the jack.

Refitting

43 Refit the transmission by following the

removal procedure in reverse, noting the
following points:

a) When refitting the torque converter-to-

flywheel bolts, coat the threads with
thread-locking compound, and then
tighten them to the specified torque.

b) When securing the transmission at its

mounting on the subframe, ensure that the
dished washer is fitted the correct way
around - convex side facing outwards,
with the tang seated in the slot at the top
of the mounting bracket.

c) Observe the specified torque wrench

settings (where applicable) when
tightening all nuts and bolts after refitting.

d) Adjust the selector and kickdown cables,

as described in Sections 3 and 4 of this
Chapter.

e) On completion, refill the transmission with

the specified type and quantity of fluid, as
described in Chapter 1.

In the event of a fault occurring, it will be

necessary to establish whether the fault is
electrical, mechanical or hydraulic in nature,
before repair work can be contemplated.
Diagnosis requires detailed knowledge of the

transmission's operation and construction, as
well as access to specialised test equipment,

and so is deemed to be beyond the scope of

this manual. It is therefore essential that

problems with the automatic transmission are
referred to a Saab dealer for assessment.

Note that a faulty transmission should not

be removed before the vehicle has been
assessed by a dealer, as fault diagnosis is
carried out with the transmission in situ.

Chapter 8 Driveshafts

Contents

Driveshaft gaiter check See Chapter 1
Driveshaft rubber gaiters - renewal 3
Driveshafts - removal inspection and refitting 2

General information 1
Intermediate driveshaft and support bearing assembly - removal

and refitting 4

Specifications

General

Lubrication (overhaul or repair only)

Use only special grease supplied in sachets with gaiter/overhaul kits;
joints are otherwise pre-packed with grease and sealed

Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft

Driveshaft nut 280 207
Intermediate driveshaft bracket-to-engine bolts (post-1994 model year) 30 22

Intermediate driveshaft bracket-to-engine bolts (pre-1994 model year) . 27 20

Roadwheel bolts 115 85
Suspension strut lower mounting bolts 90 66

Power is transmitted from the gearbox

output shafts to the roadwheels by the
driveshafts, via inboard plunge-type universal

joints and outboard Rzeppa-type constant

velocity (CV) joints.

An intermediate driveshaft, with its own

support bearing, is fitted between the gearbox
output and right-hand driveshafts - a layout

which equalises driveshaft angles at all

suspension positions, and reduces driveshaft
flexing, improving directional stability under
hard acceleration.

Note that the inboard joint is referred to

throughout this section as a "universal joint",
to distinguish it from the outboard "constant

velocity joint", although technically, they are

both constant velocity joints.

The CV joints allow smooth transmission of

drive to the wheels at all steering and
suspension angles. Drive is transmitted by

means of six radially-static steel balls that run
in grooves between the two halves of the joint.

The joints are protected by rubber gaiters, and
are packed with grease, to provide permanent

lubrication. In the event of wear being
detected, the joint can be removed from the
driveshaft, but must be renewed with the hub,
bearings and outboard driveshaft as a
matched assembly. Normally, the CV joints do
not require additional lubrication, unless they
have been renovated or the rubber gaiters
have been damaged, allowing the grease to
become contaminated. Refer to Chapter 1 for
guidance in checking the condition of the
driveshaft gaiters.

The inboard universal joints are of the

plunge-cup type; drive is transmitted across

the joint by means of three rollers, mounted on
the driveshaft in a tripod arrangement; they are

radially-static, but are free to slide in grooves.

This arrangement permits lateral movement of
the driveshaft, which in turn allows the
effective length of the driveshaft to alter with

suspension travel, without the need for spline

joints along the driveshaft itself. As with

the CV joints, the universal joints are

permanently lubricated by grease, packed
into the gaiters, which only requires
replenishment in the event of joint renewal or
gaiter damage.

To check for driveshaft wear, road test the

vehicle, driving it slowly in a circle on full steering

lock (carry out the test on both left and right
lock), while listening for a metallic clicking sound
coming from the area behind the front wheels.

An assistant in the passenger seat can listen for
the clicking sound from the nearside joint. If
such a sound is heard, this indicates wear in the
outer constant velocity joint. If vibration

proportional to road speed is felt through the car

when accelerating or on over-run, there is a
possibility of wear in the inner universal joints.

To check the joints for wear, remove and

dismantle the driveshafts as described in Sec-
tions 2 and 3. The CV joints may be renewed,
but note that the outer CV joints must be
renewed as a complete assembly with the
outboard driveshaft. Refer to a Saab dealer for

information on the availability of driveshaft
components.

8•1

Degrees of difficulty

8•2 Driveshafts

2.9 Grasp the driveshaft with one hand, and

tilt the steering swivel member away from

the vehicle; the driveshaft can now be

pulled out of the inboard universal joint,

with the gaiter still attached

Removal

1 Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the
handbrake and chock the rear wheels.
Disconnect the battery negative cable, and
position it away from the terminal.

2 At the applicable roadwheel, remove the
wheel trim (or wheel centre cap for vehicles
fitted with alloy wheels). Slacken the driveshaft

2.l3a Use a pair of circlip pliers to expand

the circlip that holds the driveshaft in

place...

2.10 Pull the splined section of the

driveshaft out of the hub

nut, bearing in mind the high torque to which

this nut is tightened - select a sturdy wrench
and close-fitting socket to remove it.
3 Loosen the roadwheel bolts, then raise the
front of the vehicle, rest it securely on axle
stands and remove the roadwheel; refer to

"Jacking, towing and wheel changing for

guidance.
4 Remove the screws and drop the liner away
from the inner wing; refer to Chapter 11 for

further information.
5 Release the clips from the inboard
driveshaft gaiter by snipping through the
crimped section using a stout pair of cutters -
note that the clips cannot be refitted once they
have been removed; new items must be used
on refitting.
6 Slide the rubber gaiter along the driveshaft,
away from the inboard universal joint; be
prepared for the loss of some lubricant as you
do this - the viscosity of driveshaft joint grease
reduces to that of gear oil after it has been in
use for some time. Position some rags
underneath the joint to catch any spillage.
7 Referring to Chapter 10 for guidance, unbolt

the strut from its lower mounting bracket at
the hub assembly. Extract the flexible brake
hose from the clip on the strut body. Note that
on models with ABS, the wheel sensor cable is
clipped into a bracket that shares a mounting
bolt with the suspension strut.

8 Remove the hub centre nut and
thrustwasher. Note that on later models, the

nut and washer are replaced by a single flange
nut. In both cases, the nuts and washers must
be discarded and renewed once disturbed.

9 Grasp the driveshaft with one hand, and tilt
the steering swivel member away from the
vehicle; the driveshaft can now be pulled out
of the inboard universal joint, with the gaiter
still attached (see illustration). Again, be
prepared for some lubricant loss.
10 Pull the splined section of the driveshaft
out of the hub (see illustration).

The driveshaft may be difficult

to extract, due to the locking
compound applied to the

spines. If this is the case, refit

the old driveshaft nut to protect the
threads, then tap the end of the
driveshaft with a soft-faced mallet, to
drive it out through the hub.

Alternatively, a suitable three-legged
puller may be used.

11 Loosely refit one of the strut lower
mounting bolts, to support the steering swivel
member whilst the driveshaft is out of the

vehicle. Cover the open universal joint cup on
the vehicle, to prevent the ingress of dirt; use a
plastic bag secured with elastic bands.

Inspection

12 Remove the remainder of the clips that
secure the second rubber gaiter to the

driveshaft. Slide the gaiters along the shaft,
away from the joints. Wipe off the majority of
the old grease with a rag.

13 At the CV joint, use a scribe or a dab of
paint to mark the relationship between the

joint and the driveshaft. Then, using pair of
circlip pliers, expand the circlip that holds the
driveshaft in place, and withdraw the shaft
from the CV joint. Note that the circlip is
captive in the joint, and need not be removed,
unless it appears damaged or worn (see
illustrations).
14 At the inboard end of the driveshaft, use a
hammer and centre-punch to mark the

2.13b ... then withdraw the shaft from the

CV joint

2.13c The circlip (arrowed) is captive in the

joint and need not be removed, unless it

appears damaged or worn

2.14a At the inboard end of the driveshaft,

use a pair of circlip pliers to remove the

circlip (arrowed)...

Driveshafts 8•3

2.14b . . . then use a three-legged puller to

draw the tripod joint off the end of the

driveshaft

relationship between the shaft and joint.
Remove the circlip with a pair of circlip pliers,
then using a three-legged puller, draw the
tripod joint off the end of the driveshaft.
Ensure that the legs of the puller bear upon the
cast centre section of the joint, not the roller
bearings (see illustrations).
15 Slide both rubber gaiters off the driveshaft
and discard them; it is recommended that new
ones are fitted on reassembly as a a matter of
course. Thoroughly clean the driveshaft
splines, CV joint and tripod joint components
with paraffin or a suitable solvent, taking care
not to obliterate the alignment marks made
during removal.
16 Examine the CV joint components for wear
and damage; in particular, check the balls and
corresponding grooves for pitting and
corrosion. If evidence of wear is visible, then
the joint must be renewed. Note that the CV

joint, balls and outboard driveshaft must be

renewed as a matched set.
17 Examine the tripod joint components for
wear. Check that the three rollers are free to
rotate without resistance, and that they are not
worn, damaged or corroded. The rollers are
supported by arrays of needle bearings; wear
or damage will be manifested as axial play in

the rollers, and/or roughness in rotation. If any
such wear is discovered, the tripod joint must

be renewed.
18 Fit a new rubber gaiter to the inboard end
of the driveshaft, and secure it in place on the
shaft with a clip.

2.21 Fit a new rubber gaiter to the outboard

end of the driveshaft, and secure it place

with a clip

19 Using the alignment marks made during
removal, fit the tripod joint onto the splines of

the driveshaft. Tap it into position using a soft-
faced mallet - to ensure that the tripod joint
rollers and driveshaft splines are not
damaged, use a socket with an internal
diameter slightly larger than that of the
driveshaft as a drift. Refit the circlip.
20 Slide the gaiter over the tripod joint, and
pack the gaiter with grease from the service
kit.

Caution: Do not allow grease to

come into contact with the

paintwork, as discolouring may

result.

21 Fit a new rubber gaiter to the outboard
end of the driveshaft, and secure it place with
a clip (see illustration).
22 Pack the CV joint with grease from the
service kit, pushing it into the ball grooves,
and expelling any air that may be trapped
underneath (see illustration).
23 Lubricate the splines of the driveshaft with
a smear of grease, then whilst splaying the
retaining circlip open with a pair of circlip
pliers, insert it into CV joint, observing the
alignment marks made during removal. Ensure

that the circlip snaps into the groove in the
driveshaft; pull on the shaft to check that it is

held securely in position.
24 Pack additional grease into the joint to
displace any air pockets, then slide the rubber
gaiter over the joint. Briefly lift the lip of the

2.22 Pack the CV joint with grease from the

service kit

gaiter to expel all the air from the joint, then
secure it in place with a clip (see
illustrations).

Refitting

25 Ensure that the splines at the outboard
end of the driveshaft are clean, then apply a
suitable locking compound (eg Loctite 641) to
the outer 10 mm of the splines.
26 After removing the temporarily-fitted bolt
from the strut mounting, pivot the steering
swivel member away from the vehicle, and
push the splined end of the driveshaft into the
hub.
27 Fit a new driveshaft thrustwasher and nut
(or flange nut, as applicable), but do not fully
tighten them at this point.
28 Align the suspension strut lower mounting
with the bracket on the steering swivel

member, and refit the two bolts, tightening

them to the correct torque. On models with
ABS, remember to fit the uppermost strut

mounting bolt through the wheel sensor cable
bracket. Press the flexible brake hose and
grommet into the clip on the strut body.
29 Support the shaft with one hand, and push
the steering swivel member back towards the
vehicle, re-engaging the tripod in the universal

joint. Slide the gaiter into position over the
joint, and briefly lift the lip of the gaiter to expel

any air trapped inside. Ensure that the gaiter is
seated squarely over the universal joint, then
fit a new clip around the centre of the joint to
secure it in place.

2.24a Pack additional grease into the joint

to displace any air pockets . . .

2.24b ... then slide the rubber gaiter over

the joint...

2.24c . . . securing it in place with a clip