SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 32

6•2 Clutch
Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; thoroughly wash off
spills from bare skin without
delay. Seek immediate medical
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets into
the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid
are inflammable, and may ignite when
brought into contact with hot components.
When servicing any hydraulic system, it is
safest to assume that the fluid IS
inflammable, and to take precautions
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol
that is being handled. It is hygroscopic (it
can absorb moisture from the air); excess
moisture content lowers the fluid boiling
point to an unacceptable level, resulting in
a loss of hydraulic pressure. Old fluid may
have suffered contamination, and should
not be re-used. When topping-up or
renewing the fluid, always use the
recommended grade, and ensure that it
comes from a freshly-opened sealed
container.
Hydraulic fluid is an effective
paint stripper, and will also
attack many plastics. If
spillage occurs onto painted
bodywork or finings, it should be
washed off immediately, using copious
quantities of fresh water.
Right-hand-drive models
Removal
1 Referring to Chapter 11 for guidance,
remove the sound insulating trim panel from
underneath the facia, on the driver's side.
2 At the connection point between the master
cylinder link rod and the clutch pedal, use a
pair of long-nosed pliers to remove the clip
from the spigot, then pull off the link rod (see
illustration).
3 As a precaution, place a dust sheet under
the clutch pedal in the footwell, to catch any
hydraulic fluid spillage.
4 From the engine bay, seal the flexible
supply hose from the fluid reservoir, using a
proprietary brake hose clamp. Release the
hose clip, and pull the supply hose off the
master cylinder port (see illustration). Be
prepared for a small amount of hydraulic fluid
loss; position a container or a wad of rags
underneath the joint to catch any spillage.
Warning: Observe the warning
given at the beginning of this
Section, regarding the hazards of
handling hydraulic fluid.
5 Slacken the rigid delivery pipe union at the
end of the master cylinder, and disconnect the
pipe; again be prepared for some hydraulic
fluid loss.
2.2 At the connection point between the
master cylinder link rod and the clutch
pedal, use a pair of long-nosed pliers to
remove the clip from the spigot (arrowed)
6 Remove the two nuts from the retaining
bolts, and lift the master cylinder away from
the bulkhead, guiding the link rod through the
aperture. Recover the gasket and inspect it for
damage; renew it if necessary.
Refitting
7 Refit the master cylinder by following the
removal procedure in reverse. On completion,
refer to Section 6 and bleed the hydraulic
system.
Pre-1994 model year left-hand-
drive models
Removal
8 Referring to Chapter 11 for guidance,
remove the sound insulating trim panel from
underneath the facia, on the driver's side.
9 At the connection point between the master
cylinder link rod and the clutch pedal, use a
pair of long-nosed pliers to remove the clip
from the clevis pin. Withdraw the pin, and pull
off the link rod.
10 As a precaution, place a dust sheet under
the clutch pedal in the footwell, to catch any
hydraulic fluid spillage.
11 From the engine bay, remove the cover
from the compartment behind the false
bulkhead panel. The master cylinder is
mounted vertically, directly above the clutch
pedal, on the upper surface of the bulkhead.
12 Seal the flexible supply hose from the fluid
reservoir, using a proprietary brake hose
clamp. Release the hose clip, and pull the
supply hose off the master cylinder port. Be
prepared for a small amount of hydraulic fluid
loss; position a container or a wad of rags
underneath the joint to catch any spillage.
Warning: Observe the warning
given at the beginning of this
Section, regarding the hazards of
handling hydraulic fluid.
13 Slacken the rigid delivery pipe union at the
end of the master cylinder, and disconnect the
pipe; again be prepared for some hydraulic
fluid loss.
14 Remove the two nuts from the retaining
bolts, and lift the master cylinder up away from
2.4 Clutch master cylinder
A Retaining nuts C Delivery pipe union
B Supply hose
the bulkhead, guiding the link rod through the
aperture. Recover the gasket and inspect it for
damage; renew it if necessary.
Refitting
15 Refit the master cylinder by following the
removal procedure in reverse. On completion,
refer to Section 6 and bleed the hydraulic
system.
Post-1994 model year left-hand-
drive models
General
16 The master cylinder is mounted under the
facia, on the brake/clutch pedal bracket,
rather than in the engine bay. Although the
removal process is no more involved than that
for the pre-1994 model year vehicles, extra
care is needed to avoid spilling hydraulic fluid
inside the car as the supply and delivery hoses
are disconnected.
Removal
17 Referring to Chapter 11 for guidance,
remove the sound insulating trim panel from
underneath the facia, on the driver's side.
18 Remove the clip from the end of the shaft
between the clutch pedal and the master
cylinder link rod. Extract the shaft.
19 Fit a proprietary brake hose clamp to the
supply hose (this is the hose connected to the
uppermost port on the side of the master
cylinder). Expand the clip by hand, and
disconnect the hose from the master cylinder.
Be prepared for the loss of some hydraulic fluid
at this point; position a container underneath
the joint, to catch any spillage and prevent it
from contaminating the footwell carpet.
20 At the lower port on the master cylinder
body, slacken the delivery pipe union and
unplug the pipe; again, be prepared for some
hydraulic fluid leakage - reposition the
container to catch the spillage.
21 Slacken and remove the retaining nuts,
then lift master cylinder off the pedal bracket.
Refitting
22 Refit the master cylinder by following the
removal procedure in reverse. Observe the
specified torque wrench setting when

Clutch 6•3
tightening the master cylinder-to-pedal
bracket nuts.
23 On completion, refer to Section 6 and
bleed the hydraulic system.
a) Observe the specified torque wrench
setting when refitting the master cylinder
to the pedal mounting bracket.
b) Fit a new pivot bolt locknut, and tighten it
to the correct torque.
Right-hand-drive models, and
pre-1994 model year
left-hand-drive models
Removal
1 Remove the sound insulating panel from
underneath the facia, below the steering
column; refer to Chapter 11 for guidance.
2 Referring to the relevant paragraphs of
Section 2, disconnect the clutch master
cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.
3 To improve access to the pedal mountings,
remove the screw and lift off the bracket that
supports the cruise control switches.
4 Depress the pedal to the end of its travel,
then remove the locknut from the end of the
pedal pivot bolt.
5 Unhook the spring from the pedal mounting
bracket and slide it off, together with the
plastic bobbin.
Refitting
6 Refit the pedal by reversing the removal
procedure. Fit a new pivot bolt locknut, and
tighten it to the correct torque.
Post-1994 model year left-hand-
drive models
Removal
7 Remove the sound insulating panel from
underneath the facia, below the steering
column; refer to Chapter 11 for guidance.
8 Referring to the relevant paragraphs of
Section 2, disconnect the clutch master
cylinder from the pedal mounting bracket.
Note: There is no need to disconnect the
hydraulic hoses from the master cylinder.
9 To improve access to the pedal mountings,
remove the screw and lift off the bracket that
supports the cruise control switches.
10 Depress the pedal, and remove the
locknut from the end of the pivot bolt.
11 At the point where the return spring is
linked to the pedal shaft, remove the clip from
the end of the pin and lift off the spring,
together with its bracket.
12 Detach the central locking ECU from its
mounting position under the facia by releasing
the clip from the facia moulding. Position it to
one side, away from the work area.
13 Push the pedal upwards towards the facia,
then slide it off the pivot bolt and remove from
the vehicle.
Refitting
14 Refit the pedal by reversing the removal
procedure, noting the following points:
Removal
Warning: Dust created by clutch
wear and deposited on the clutch
. components may contain
asbestos, which is a health
hazard. DO NOT blow it out with
compressed air, nor inhale any of it. DO
NOT use petrol or petroleum-based
solvents to clean off the dust. Brake
system cleaner or methylated spirit should
be used to flush the dust into a suitable
receptacle. After the clutch components
are wiped clean with clean rags, dispose of
the contaminated rags and cleaner in a
sealed, marked container.
Note: Although some friction materials may no
longer contain asbestos, it is safest to assume
that they DO, and to take precautions
accordingly
1 Unless the complete engine/transmission is
to be removed from the car and separated for
major overhaul (see Chapter 2B), the clutch
can be accessed by removing the
transmission, as described in Chapter 7A.
2 Before disturbing any of the clutch
components, mark the relationship between
the pressure plate, driven plate and the
flywheel.
3 To aid the removal of the pressure plate, the
flywheel should ideally be locked in position by
bolting a locking tool to one of the
transmission mounting holes, and engaging it
with the flywheel ring gear. If a universal
flywheel locking tool is not available, the
crankshaft (and hence the flywheel) can be
held stationary using a wrench and socket on
the crankshaft sprocket bolt. The help of an
assistant will be required to complete this
task.
4 Working diagonally across the pressure
plate, progressively slacken the mounting
screws, half a turn at a time, until they can be
removed by hand.
5 Lift off the pressure plate, then recover the
driven plate, noting its orientation (see
illustration).
Inspection
Note: Due to the amount of work necessary to
remove and refit clutch components, it is
usually considered good practice to renew the
clutch friction plate, pressure plate assembly
and release bearing as a matched set, even if
only one of these is actually worn enough to
require renewal.
4.5 Lift off the pressure plate, then recover
the driven plate, noting its orientation
6 When cleaning clutch components, observe
the warning at the beginning of this Section
regarding the hazards of handling the friction
materials contained in clutch components;
remove dust using a clean, dry cloth, and
working in a well-ventilated atmosphere.
7 Check the driven plate facings for signs of
wear, damage or oil contamination. If the
friction material is cracked, burnt, scored or
damaged, or if it is contaminated with oil or
grease (shown by shiny black patches), the
friction plate must be renewed.
8 If the friction material is still serviceable,
check that the centre boss splines are unworn,
that the torsion springs are in good condition
and securely fastened, and that all the rivets
are tightly fastened. If any wear or damage is
found, the friction plate must be renewed.
9 If the friction material is fouled with oil, this
must be due to an oil leak from the crankshaft
left-hand oil seal, from the sump-to-cylinder
block joint, or from the transmission input
shaft; renew the seal or repair the joint, as
appropriate, as described in Chapter 2 or 7
before installing the new friction plate.
10 Check the pressure plate assembly for
obvious signs of wear or damage; shake it to
check for loose rivets or worn or damaged
fulcrum rings, and check that the drive straps
securing the pressure plate to the cover do not
show signs of overheating (such as a deep
yellow or blue discoloration). If the diaphragm
spring is worn or damaged, or if its pressure is
in any way suspect, the pressure plate
assembly should be renewed.
11 Examine the machined bearing surfaces of
the pressure plate and of the flywheel; they
should be clean, completely flat and free from
scratches or scoring. If either is discoloured
from excessive heat or shows signs of cracks
it should be renewed, although minor damage
of this nature can sometimes be polished
away using emery paper.
12 Check that the release bearing contact
surface rotates smoothly and easily, with no
sign of noise or roughness, and that the
surface itself is smooth and unworn, with no
signs of cracks, pitting or scoring. If there is
any doubt about its condition, the bearing
must be renewed; refer to Section 5 for
guidance.

6•4 Clutch
4.17 Progressively tighten the pressure
plate bolts in a diagonal sequence and to
the specified torque setting
Refitting
13 On reassembly, ensure that the bearing
surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate are
completely clean, smooth and free from oil or
grease. Use solvent to remove any protective
grease from new components.
14 Offer up the driven plate so that its spring
hub assembly faces away from the flywheel;
observe any manufacturers' markings which
show which way around the plate should be
fitted.
15 Refit the pressure plate assembly to the
flywheel, engaging it with its locating dowels;
align the marks made on dismantling if the
original pressure plate is being re-used. Fit the
pressure plate screws, hand-tightening them
only at this stage, so that the friction plate can
be rotated to aid alignment, if necessary.
16 The driven plate must now be centralised
inside the pressure plate assembly, so that
when the transmission is refitted, the input
shaft will pass through the splines at the
centre of the driven plate. This can be
achieved by passing a large screwdriver or
wrench extension bar through the driven plate
and into the hole in the crankshaft; the driven
plate can then be moved around until it is
centred over the crankshaft hole. Alternatively,
a universal clutch alignment tool can be used;
these can be obtained from most car
accessory shops.
A clutch alignment device can
be made up from a length of
metal rod or wooden dowel
which is either tapered at one
end, or fits closely inside the crankshaft
hole, and has insulating tape wound
around it, to match the internal
diameter of the driven plate splined
hole.
Ensure that the driven plate alignment is
correct before proceeding any further.
17 When the friction plate is centralised,
progressively tighten the pressure plate bolts
in a diagonal sequence and to the specified
torque setting (see illustration).
18 Where applicable, remove the flywheel
locking tool.
Release bearing
Inspection
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, and rest it securely on a
worksurface.
2 Spin the release bearing whilst it is mounted
on its guide sleeve, and listen to the sound it
makes; any rattling or crunching noises
indicates that either dirt has contaminated the
internal bearings, or that the bearings
themselves have failed. In either case, the
release bearing should be renewed as
described in the following sub-section.
3 Similarly, if the release bearing is stiff to
rotate or is excessively loose in its mounted
position, this indicates that it is worn and in
need of renewal.
4 Note that, due to the comparatively low cost
of the release bearing and the large
expenditure of effort required to gain access to
it, it is prudent to renew the bearing regardless
of its condition, whenever the transmission is
removed for clutch inspection or renewal.
5.8 Slackening the union (arrowed) at the
base of the hydraulic supply pipe
Removal
5 Using a pair of screwdrivers, prise the
release bearing off the slave cylinder guide
sleeve, at the gearbox input shaft (see
illustration). Note its orientation, to ensure
correct refitting.
Refitting
6 Refit the bearing by pushing back the dust
cover bellows, and simply pressing it over the
slave cylinder guide sleeve.
Slave cylinder housing
Removal
7 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, and rest it securely on a
worksurface.
8 At the side of the slave cylinder housing,
slacken the unions at the base of the hydraulic
supply and bleed pipes. Disconnect both
pipes from the cylinder housing (see
illustration).
9 Slacken and remove the three screws that
secure the cylinder housing to the inside of the
bellhousing. Lift the housing away from the
bellhousing, over the gearbox input shaft (see
illustration). Recover and discard the O-ring
seal; a new one must be fitted on reassembly.
10 Retract the dust cover bellows, prise the
release bearing off the guide sleeve, and then
lift off the dust cover bellows (see
illustrations).
5.9 Lift the slave cylinder housing away
from the bellhousing, over the gearbox
input shaft
5.10a Retract the dust cover bellows, prise
the release bearing off the guide sleeve . . .
5.5 Using a pair of screwdrivers, prise the
release bearing off the slave cylinder guide
sleeve
19 Apply a thin smear of high-melting point
grease to the splines of the friction plate and
the transmission input shaft.
20 Refit the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A.

Clutch 6•5
5.10b . . . and then lift off the dust cover
bellows
5.12 Fit the new O-ring seal (arrowed) in
the channel at the rear of the slave cylinder
housing
6.4 Remove the inspection cover from the
top of the transmission bellhousing, to
expose the bleed pipe and nipple
Refitting
11 Press the dust cover bellows over the
guide sleeve, and fit the release bearing.
12 Fit the new O-ring seal in the channel at
the rear of the slave cylinder housing (see
illustration); use a light smear of multi-
purpose grease to hold the seal in place
during refitting.
13 Offer up the slave cylinder housing to the
bellhousing. Apply thread-locking compound
to the three securing screws, then refit and
tighten them.
14 Refit the hydraulic supply and bleed pipes,
and tighten the unions securely.
Warning: Hydraulic fluid is
poisonous; thoroughly wash off
spills from bare skin without
delay. Seek immediate medical
advice if any fluid is swallowed or gets into
the eyes. Certain types of hydraulic fluid
are inflammable, and may ignite when
brought into contact with hot components.
When servicing any hydraulic system, it is
safest to assume that the fluid IS
inflammable, and to take precautions
against the risk of fire as though it is petrol
that is being handled. Hydraulic fluid is an
effective paint stripper, and will also attack
many plastics. If spillage occurs onto
painted bodywork or fittings, it should be
washed off immediately, using copious
quantities of fresh water. It is also
hygroscopic (it can absorb moisture from
the air); excess moisture content lowers
the fluid boiling point to an unacceptable
level, resulting in a loss of hydraulic
pressure. Old fluid may have suffered
contamination, and should not be re-used.
When topping-up or renewing the fluid,
always use the recommended grade, and
ensure that it comes from a freshly-
opened sealed container.
General information
1 Whenever the clutch hydraulic lines are
disconnected for service or repair, a certain
amount of air will enter the system. The
presence of air in any hydraulic system will
introduce a degree of elasticity and in the
clutch system, this will translate into poor
pedal feel and reduced travel, leading to
inefficient gear changes, and even clutch
failure. For this reason, the hydraulic lines
must be sealed using hose clamps before any
work is carried out; on completion, the fluid
should be topped up and bled to remove any
air bubbles.
2 To seal off the hydraulic supply to the clutch
slave cylinder, trace the rigid pipe from its
point of entry at the transmission bellhousing,
back to the point where it connects to the
flexible hydraulic hose. Fit a proprietary brake
hose clamp to the flexible hose, and tighten it
securely.
3 Unlike the braking system, the clutch
hydraulic system cannot be bled by simply
pumping the clutch pedal and catching the
ejected fluid in a receptacle connected to the
bleed pipe. The system must be pressurised
externally; the most effective way of achieving
this is to use a pressure brake bleeding kit.
These are readily available in motor accessory
shops and are extremely effective; the
following sub-section describes bleeding the
clutch system using such a kit.
Bleeding
4 Remove the inspection cover from the top
of the transmission bellhousing, to expose the
bleed pipe and nipple (see illustration).
5 Fit a ring spanner over the bleed nipple
head, but do not slacken it at this point.
Connect a length of clear plastic hose over the
nipple, and insert the other end into a clean
container (see illustration). Pour hydraulic
fluid into the container, such that the end of
the hose is covered.
6 Following the kit manufacturer's
instructions, pour hydraulic fluid into the
bleeding kit vessel.
7 Unscrew the vehicle's fluid reservoir cap,
6.5 Ring spanner, bleed hose and fluid
receiving container connected to the clutch
bleed nipple
then connect the bleeding kit fluid supply hose
to the reservoir.
8 Connect the pressure hose to a supply of
compressed air - a spare tyre is convenient
source (see illustration).
Caution: Check that the pressure
in the tyre does not exceed the
maximum quoted by the kit
manufacturer, let some air
escape to reduce the pressure, if
necessary. Gently open the air valve, and
allow the air and fluid pressures to
equalise. Check that there are no leaks
before proceeding.
9 Using the spanner, slacken the bleed pipe
nipple until fluid and air bubbles can be seen
to flow through the tube, into the container.
Maintain a steady flow until the emerging fluid
is free of air bubbles; keep a watchful eye on
the level of fluid in the bleeding kit vessel and
the vehicle's fluid reservoir - if it is allowed to
drop too low, air may be forced into the
system, defeating the object of the exercise.
To refill the vessel, turn off the compressed air
supply, remove the lid, and pour in an
appropriate quantity of clean fluid from a
new container - do not re-use the fluid
collected in the receiving container. Repeat as