SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 16
2B•10 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
4.95 Unscrewing the engine right-hand
mounting front nut
93 On automatic transmission models, clean
the area around the transmission oil cooler
connections, then unscrew the union bolts and
disconnect the fluid hoses from the
transmission fluid cooler. Recover the copper
washers, and store them in a safe place. Tie
the hoses to the engine subframe.
Wrap masking tape around
the ends of the hoses, and
similarly cover the apertures
of the transmission, to prevent
the entry of dust and dirt.
94 On automatic transmission models,
disconnect the selector control from the side
of the transmission as follows. Unscrew the
nut from the gear selector linkage and outer
cable, then prise the cable from the clip,
together with the rubber bush, using a
screwdriver. Retain the cable behind the brake
fluid reservoir.
All models
95 Using a socket, unscrew the two engine
right-hand mounting nuts (see illustration).
Access may be gained by using an extension
from the top right-hand side of the engine
compartment
96 Loosen and remove the clips securing the
driveshaft rubber gaiters to the inner joints, in
order to allow the joints to separate when the
front suspension struts are moved outwards. If
crimped-type clips are fitted, use snips to cut
through them.
97 Working on each side of the car in turn,
loosen (but do not remove) the bottom bolts
securing the struts to the steering knuckles,
and completely remove the upper bolts. This
will allow the knuckles to move outwards
sufficiently to disconnect the driveshaft inner
joints. It will also be helpful to disconnect one
of the steering track rod ends, to allow the
suspension struts to move more freely.
98 Working on each side of the car in turn, pull
out the steering knuckles; at the same time,
disconnect the rubber gaiters to allow the inner
ends of the driveshafts to separate from the
inner joints. Cover the exposed ends of the
driveshaft joints with polythene or masking
tape, to prevent the entry of dust and dirt.
4.102 The left-hand engine mounting -
slotted portion arrowed
99 Unscrew and remove the lower mounting
screw for the electric cooling fan assembly.
100 Unscrew the upper mounting screws for
the electric cooling fan unit. Unplug the wiring
connector, and withdraw the cooling fan unit
from the engine compartment. Take care not
to damage the radiator matrix.
101 If necessary, lower and support the car to
the height necessary to operate the hoist.
Manoeuvre the engine hoist into position, and
attach it to the lifting brackets bolted onto the
cylinder head.
102 Raise the hoist until it is supporting the
weight of the engine. Unscrew the left-hand
engine mounting nut - there is no need to
completely remove the bolt, as the mounting is
slotted (see illustration).
103 Make a final check that any components
which would prevent the removal of the
engine/transmission from the car have been
removed or "disconnected. Ensure that
components such as the gearchange selector
rod are secured so that they cannot be
damaged on removal.
104 Slowly raise the engine/transmission
assembly from the engine compartment,
making sure that it clears the components on
the surrounding panels (see illustration). In
particular, make sure that it clears the ABS
unit, the kickdown cable (automatic
transmission models) and the radiator. With
the assembly raised above the front
crossmember, pull the hoist away from the
car, and lower the assembly onto the ground.
4.104 Removing the engine
Enlist the help of an assistant during this
procedure, as it may be necessary to tilt the
assembly slightly to clear the body panels.
Separation of transmission from
engine
105 It is not essential to drain the oil, as
driveshaft flanges are fitted to each side. If
preferred, drain the transmission oil/fluid as
described in Chapter 7A or 7B. Refit the drain
and filler plugs, and tighten them securely.
106 If the engine is to be dismantled, working
as described in Chapter 1, drain the oil and if
required remove the oil filter. Clean and refit
the drain plug, tightening it securely.
107 Support the engine/transmission
assembly on suitable blocks of wood, on a
workbench (or failing that, on a clean area of
the workshop floor).
108 Remove the starter motor with reference
to Chapter 5A.
109 Disconnect the electronic speedometer
wiring at the connector, by inserting a
screwdriver and pulling out the clip. If
necessary, the complete engine wiring loom
can be disconnected at this stage (see
illustrations).
110 Where the alternator has not yet been
removed (on early models), unscrew the nut
and disconnect the lead from the rear of the
alternator. Also disconnect the charge warning
light lead (green/white) from the alternator.
Unscrew the alternator mounting bolts front
the driveshaft bearing support bracket and
4.109a Insert a screwdriver .
4.109b . . . and pull out the clip
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•11
4.109c Releasing the wiring connector at
the rear of the engine
power steering pump bracket, and withdraw
the alternator from the engine.
111 Unbolt the driveshaft bearing support
bracket from the rear of the cylinder block, at
the same time sliding the splined shaft from
the driveshaft extension.
112 Unbolt and remove the rear engine
mounting bracket.
113 Position a suitable container beneath the
oil filter, then unscrew and remove the oil filter
from the bracket on the front or rear of the
cylinder block (as applicable).
Manual transmission models
114 On Turbo models, unscrew the bolt
securing the turbo oil pipe bracket to the
transmission.
115 Unbolt the bottom cover from the
transmission bellhousing (see illustration).
116 Ensure that both engine and transmission
are adequately supported, then unscrew the
bolts securing the transmission housing to the
engine (see illustration). Note the correct
fitted positions of each bolt as they are
removed, to use as a reference on refitting.
Withdraw the transmission directly from the
engine. Take care not to allow the weight of
the transmission to bear on the input shaft and
clutch.
Automatic transmission models
117 Unscrew the top stud securing the
transmission to the engine cylinder block, by
approximately 10 mm. To do this, first
4.109d Release all wiring from plastic
cable-ties - this one is located on the oil
filler tube
unscrew the nut a few threads, then tighten a
further nut onto it, and unscrew both.
118 Disconnect the kickdown cable from the
inlet manifold bracket. Extract the spring clip,
and disconnect the accelerator cable from the
lever on the throttle housing.
119 Remove the breather valve from the top
of the transmission.
120 On Turbo models, unscrew the bolt
securing the turbo oil pipe bracket to the
transmission.
121 Working through the starter motor
aperture, unscrew the three bolts securing the
flywheel to the torque converter. To bring each
bolt into view, turn the engine using a socket
on the crankshaft pulley bolt (see illustration).
122 Saab technicians use a special tool to
hold the torque converter inside the
transmission while the transmission is
separated from the engine. The tool is quite
basic, and consists of a plate which engages
the torque converter through the timing hole in
the top of the transmission. It is held in
position using a pair of grips (see illustration).
123 Support the weight of the transmission,
preferably using a hoist.
124 Ensure that both engine and transmission
are adequately supported, then unscrew the
bolts securing the transmission housing to the
engine. Note the correct fitted positions of
each bolt as they are removed, to use as a
reference on refitting. Withdraw the
transmission directly from the engine. Make
H 28525
4.115 Removing the transmission housing
bottom cover
sure that the torque converter stays inside the
transmission bellhousing, otherwise it may fall
out and be damaged.
Reconnection of transmission to
engine
Automatic transmission models
125 Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine. Make sure that the torque converter is
held fully engaged with the transmission, using
the special tool described in paragraph 122.
126 Insert and tighten the top mounting stud
into the transmission, then unscrew and
remove the second locknut, and tighten the
mounting nut securely.
127 Insert and tighten to the specified torque
the remaining bolts securing the transmission
to the engine.
128 Remove the special tool, then insert and
tighten to the specified torque the three bolts
securing the flywheel to the torque converter.
Turn the engine using a socket.
129 On Turbo models, insert and tighten the
bolts securing the turbo oil pipe bracket to the
transmission.
130 Refit the breather valve to the top of the
transmission.
131 Reconnect the kickdown cable to the
linkage on the throttle housing, then refit the
outer cable to the inlet manifold bracket, and
adjust with reference to Chapter 7B. Tighten
the adjustment locknuts.
4.116 Unscrewing the bolts (two arrowed)
securing the transmission to the engine
4.121 Removing one of the bolts securing
the flywheel to the torque converter
4.122 Tool (and grips) for holding the
torque converter inside the transmission
2B•12 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures
Manual transmission models
132 Apply a smear of high-melting-point
grease to the splines of the transmission input
shaft. Do not apply too much, otherwise there
is a possibility of the grease contaminating the
clutch friction plate.
133 Carefully offer the transmission to the
engine. Ensure that the weight of the
transmission is not allowed to hang on the
input shaft as it is engaged with the clutch
friction disc. Insert and tighten to the specified
torque the bolts securing the transmission to
the engine.
134 Refit the bottom cover to the
transmission bellhousing, and tighten the
bolts.
135 On Turbo models, insert and tighten the
bolts securing the turbo oil pipe bracket to the
transmission.
All models
136 Wipe clean the contact surfaces, then
refit and tighten the oil filter with reference to
Chapter 1.
137 Refit the engine rear mounting bracket,
and tighten the bolts.
138 Refit the driveshaft bearing support
bracket to the rear of the cylinder block, while
sliding the splined shaft onto the driveshaft
extension. Insert and tighten the bolts.
139 On early models, refit the alternator to the
driveshaft bearing support bracket and power
steering pump bracket, and tighten the
mounting bolts. Reconnect the starter motor
lead, and tighten the nut. Reconnect the
charge warning light lead to the rear of the
alternator.
140 Refit the starter motor together with the
steady bar with reference to Chapter 5A.
Refitting
141 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note
the following additional points:
a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
torque.
b) Renew the copper washers on unions, as
applicable.
c) Where applicable, tension the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt with
reference to Chapter 1.
d) Where applicable, bleed the clutch
hydraulic system with reference to
Chapter 6.
e) Reconnect and adjust the accelerator
cable, with reference to Chapter 4A.
f) Ensure that all wiring has been
reconnected, and all nuts and bolts have
been tightened.
g) Refill the engine and transmission with the
correct quantity and grade of oil/fluid, with
reference to Chapter 7.
h) Refill the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
i) Check and if necessary top-up the power
steering fluid, with reference to Chapter 1.
1 It is much easier to dismantle and work on
the engine if it is mounted on a portable
engine stand. These stands can often be hired
from a tool hire shop. Before the engine is
mounted on a stand, the flywheel/driveplate
should be removed, so that the stand bolts
can be tightened into the end of the cylinder
block/crankcase.
2 If a stand is not available, it is possible to
dismantle the engine with it blocked up on a
sturdy workbench, or on the floor. Be extra-
careful not to tip or drop the engine when
working without a stand.
3 If you are going to obtain a reconditioned
engine, all the external components must be
removed first, to be transferred to the
replacement engine (just as they will if you are
doing a complete engine overhaul yourself).
These components normally include the
following, but check with your engine supplier
first:
a) Alternator mounting bracket (Chapter 5A).
b) The distributor (where applicable), HT
leads or Direct Ignition cartridge and spark
plugs, as applicable (Chapter 1 and
Chapter 5B).
c) Thermostat and housing (Chapter 3).
d) The dipstick tube, where applicable.
e) Air conditioning compressor mounting
bracket (Chapter 3).
f) The fuel injection system and emission
control components (Chapter 4A and 4B).
g) All electrical switches and sensors, and
the engine wiring harness.
h) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4A).
i) Oil filter (Chapter 1).
j) Engine mounting brackets (Part A of this
Chapter),
k) Flywheel/driveplate (Part A of this
Chapter).
When removing the external
components from the engine,
pay close attention to details
that may be helpful or
important during refitting. Note the
fitted position of gaskets, seals,
spacers, pins, washers, bolts, and other
small items.
4 If you are obtaining a "short" engine (which
consists of the engine cylinder block/
crankcase, crankshaft, pistons and connecting
rods all assembled), then the cylinder head
and sump will have to be removed also.
5 If you are planning a complete overhaul, the
engine can be dismantled, and the internal
components removed, in the order given
below, referring to Part A of this Chapter
unless otherwise stated:
a) Inlet and exhaust manifolds (Chapter 4A).
b) Cylinder head (Chapter 2A).
c) Timing chain (and balance shaft chain
where applicable), sprockets and
tensioner (Chapter 2A).
d) Flywheel/driveplate (Chapter 2A).
e) Balance shafts (where applicable) (Sec-
tion 9).
f) Sump (Chapter 2A).
g) Piston/connecting rod assemblies
(Section 10).
h) Crankshaft (Section 11).
6 Before beginning the dismantling and
overhaul procedures, make sure that you have
all of the correct tools necessary. Refer to
"Tools and working facilities" for further
information.
Note: New/reconditioned cylinder heads are
obtainable from Saab, or from engine overhaul
specialists. Be aware that some specialist tools
are required for the dismantling and inspection
procedures, and new components may not be
readily available. It may therefore be more
practical and economical for the home
mechanic to purchase a reconditioned head,
rather than dismantle, inspect and recondition
the original head.
1 Remove the cylinder head as described in
Part A, then unbolt the external components -
these include the right-hand engine mounting
bracket, the engine lifting eye, and the
distributor blanking plug, according to model
(see illustrations).
6.1 a Removing the right-hand engine
mounting bracket from the cylinder head
6.1 b Unbolting the engine lifting eye from
the front of the cylinder head
5 Engine overhaul -
dismantling sequence
Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•13
6.1 c Unbolt the clamp...
2 Remove the camshafts and hydraulic cam
followers, with reference to Part A, Section 8.
3 Before removing the valves, consider
obtaining plastic protectors for the hydraulic
cam follower bores. When using certain valve
spring compressors, the bores can easily be
damaged, should the compressor slip off the
end of the valve.
The cam follower bore
protectors can be obtained
from a Saab dealer;
alternatively, a protector may
be made out of plastic cut from a
washing-up liquid container or similar.
6.1d . . . and remove the distributor
blanking plug
4 Position the protector in the cam follower
bore, then using a valve spring compressor,
compress the valve spring until the split collets
can be removed. Release the compressor, and
lift off the spring retainer, spring and seat.
Using a pair of pliers, carefully extract the
valve stem seal from the top of the guide (see
illustrations).
5 If, when the valve spring compressor is
screwed down, the spring retainer refuses to
free and expose the split collets, gently tap the
top of the tool, directly over the retainer, with a
light hammer. This will free the retainer.
6 Withdraw the valve through the combustion
chamber.
6.4a Using a compressor to compress the
valve springs in order to remove the split
collets
7 It is essential that each valve is stored
together with its collets, retainer, spring, and
spring seat. The valves should also be kept in
their correct sequence, unless they are so
badly worn that they are to be renewed. If they
are going to be kept and used again, place
each valve assembly in a labelled polythene
bag or similar small container (see
illustrations). Note that No 1 cylinder
is nearest to the timing chain end of the
engine.
8 With all the valves removed, use a pair of
pliers to pull the valve seals from the tops of
the guides.
6.4b Removing the spring retainer . . .
6.4c . . . valve spring . . .
6.4d . . . and seat
6.4e Valve stem seal location
6.4f Removing a valve stem seal
6.7a The valve spring components
