SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 14

2B•2 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

Balance shafts

Endfloat 0.050 to 0.450 mm
Diameter of journal:

Larger, inner 39.900 ± 0.008 mm
Smaller, outer 19.947 to 19.960 mm

Diameter of bearing:

Larger, inner 39.988 to 40.043 mm
Smaller, outer 20.000 to 20.021 mm

Bearing running clearance (maximum) 0.080 to 0.151 mm


Note: Piston diameter is measured at right-angles to the piston boss, at the specified distance from the bottom of the skirt.
Distance from bottom of skirt

B202 16.00 mm
B234, models up to 1993 9.0 mm
B204L/S, B234L7R/E, 1994-on models 9.3 mm
B204I and B234i,1994-on models 11.0 mm

Piston diameter:


Standard A 89.971 to 89.980 mm
Standard AB 89.980 to 89.989 mm
Standard B 89.989 to 90.000 mm
Standard C 90.000 to 90.008 mm
First oversize (0.5 mm) 90.470 to 90.485 mm
Second oversize (1.0 mm) 90.970 to 90.985 mm
Nominal piston clearance (new) 0.010 to 0.039 mm

B202 Turbo and B202S:

Standard A 89.967 to 89.977 mm
Standard AB 89.977 to 89.985 mm
Standard B 89.985 to 89.993 mm
Standard C 89.993 to 90.009 mm
First oversize (0.5 mm) 90.470 to 90.485 mm
Second oversize (1.0 mm) 90.970 to 90.985 mm
Nominal piston clearance (new) 0.015 to 0.043 mm

B204 and B234:

Standard A 89.971 to 89.980 mm
Standard AB 89.980 to 89.989 mm
Standard B:
B234i up to 1993 89.989 to 90.000 mm
B204/B234 from 1994 on 89.989 to 90.000 mm
B234 Turbo up to 1993 89.989 to 89.997 mm
Standard C:
B234i up to 1993 : 90.000 to 90.013 mm
B204/B234 from 1994 90.000 to 90.013 mm
B234 Turbo up to 1993 89.997 to 90.013 mm
First oversize (0.5 mm) 90.482 to 90.488 mm
Second oversize (1.0 mm) 90.972 to 90.988 mm
Nominal piston clearance (new):
Models up to 1993 0.006 to 0.041 mm
Models from 1994 on 0.011 to 0.041 mm

Connecting rods

Maximum weight difference between any two connecting rods:

B202 9.0 g
B204/B234 6.0 g


Endfloat (all engines) 0.06 to 0.31 mm
Main bearing journal diameter:

Standard 57.981 to 58.000 mm
First undersize 57.731 to 57.750 mm
Second undersize 57.481 to 57.500 mm
Third undersize 57.237 to 57.250 mm
Fourth undersize 56.987 to 57.000 mm

Big-end bearing journal diameter:

Standard 51.981 to 52.000 mm
First undersize 51.731 to 51.750 mm
Second undersize 51.481 to 51.500 mm
Third undersize 51.237 to 51.250 mm
Fourth undersize . 50.987 to 51.000 mm

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•3

Maximum bearing journal out-of-round (all engines):

New 0.005 mm

Service 0.050 mm

Main bearing running clearance:

B202 . . .0.020 to 0.062 mm
B204/B234 (up to 1993) 0.020 to 0.062 mm
B204/B234 (from 1994) 0.014 to 0.062 mm

3ig-end bearing running clearance:

Up to 1993 0.026 to 0.062 mm
From 1994 0.020 to 0.068 mm

Piston rings

End gaps:

Top compression ring:

B202 0.35 to 0.48 mm
B204/B234 0.30 to 0.50 mm

Second compression ring:

B202 0.25 to 0.38 mm
B234 up to 1993 0.30 to 0.45 mm
B204/B234 from 1994 0.15 to 0.65 mm

Oil control ring (segment where applicable) 0.38 to 1.40 mm

Side clearance in groove:

Top compression ring:

All engines 0.050 to 0.082 mm

Second compression ring:

Up to 1993 0.034 to 0.070 mm
1994 on 0.040 to 0.072 mm

Oil control ring Not applicable

Torque wrench settings

Refer to Chapter 2A Specifications.

1 General information

Included in this Part of Chapter 2 are details

of removing the engine from the vehicle, and
general overhaul procedures for the cylinder
head, cylinder block/crankcase, and all engine

internal components.

The information given ranges from advice

concerning preparation for an overhaul and

the purchase of replacement parts, to detailed
step-by-step procedures covering removal,

inspection, renovation and refitting of engine
internal components.

After Section 8, all instructions are based on

tne assumption that the engine has been
removed from the vehicle. For information

concerning in-car engine repair, as well as the

removal and refitting of those external

components necessary for full overhaul, refer

to Part A of this Chapter. Ignore any

preliminary dismantling operations described

in Part A that are no longer relevant once the

engine has been removed from the vehicle.

2 Engine overhaul -

general information

It is not always easy to determine when, or

if an engine should be completely overhauled,

as a number of factors must be considered.

High mileage is not necessarily an indication

that an overhaul is needed, while low mileage

does not preclude the need for an overhaul.

Frequency of servicing is probably the most
important consideration. An engine which has
had regular and frequent oil and filter changes,

as well as other required maintenance, should
give many thousands of miles of reliable
service. Conversely, a neglected engine may
require an overhaul very early in its life.

Excessive oil consumption is an indication

that piston rings, valve seals and/or valve
guides are in need of attention. Make sure that
oil leaks are not responsible before deciding
that the rings and/or guides are worn. Perform

a compression test, as described in Part A of
this Chapter, to determine the likely cause of
the problem.

Check the oil pressure with a gauge fitted in

place of the oil pressure switch, and compare
it with that specified. If it is extremely low, the
main and big-end bearings, and/or the oil
pump, are probably worn out.

Loss of power, rough running, knocking or

metallic engine noises, excessive valve gear
noise, and high fuel consumption may also
point to the need for an overhaul, especially if

they are all present at the same time. If a
complete service does not remedy the
situation, major mechanical work is the only

An engine overhaul involves restoring all

internal parts to the specification of a new
engine. During an overhaul, the cylinders are
rebored (where necessary) and the pistons

and the piston rings are renewed. New main
and big-end bearings are generally fitted; if
necessary, the crankshaft may be renewed or
reground, to restore the journals. The valves

are also serviced as well, since they are
usually in less-than-perfect condition at this
point. While the engine is being overhauled,
other components, such as the distributor
(where applicable), starter and alternator, can
be overhauled as well. The end result should
be an as-new engine that will give many
trouble-free miles.

Note: Critical cooling system components

such as the hoses, thermostat and water pump
should be renewed when an engine is
overhauled. The radiator should be checked
carefully, to ensure that it is not clogged or

leaking. Also, it is a good idea to renew the oil

pump whenever the engine is overhauled.

Before beginning the engine overhaul, read

through the entire procedure, to familiarise
yourself with the scope and requirements of
the job. Overhauling an engine is not difficult if
you follow carefully all of the instructions, have
the necessary tools and equipment, and pay
close attention to all specifications. It can,
however, be time-consuming. Plan on the car
being off the road for a minimum of two
weeks, especially if parts must be taken to an
engineering works for repair or reconditioning.
Check on the availability of parts, and make
sure that any necessary special tools and

equipment are obtained in advance. Most
work can be done with typical hand tools,
although a number of precision measuring

tools are required for inspecting parts to
determine if they must be renewed. Often the
engineering works will handle the inspection of
parts, and will offer advice concerning
reconditioning and renewal.

2B•4 Engine removal and general overhaul procedures

4.2 Remove the right-hand front wing

moulding, followed by the wheelarch liner

Note: Always wait until the engine has been

completely dismantled, and until all
components (especially the cylinder
block/'crankcase and the crankshaft) have been
inspected, before deciding what service and
repair operations must be performed by an
engineering works. The condition of these
components will be the major factor to
consider when determining whether to
overhaul the original engine, or to buy a
reconditioned unit. Do not, therefore, purchase

parts or have overhaul work done on other
components until they have been thoroughly
As a general rule, time is the

primary cost of an overhaul, so it does not pay

to fit worn or sub-standard parts.

As a final note, to ensure maximum life and

minimum trouble from a reconditioned engine,
everything must be assembled with care, in a
spotlessly-clean environment.

3 Engine removal -

methods and precautions

If you have decided that the engine must be

removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.

Locating a suitable place to work is

extremely important. Adequate workspace,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage is not
available, at the very least, a flat, level, clean
worksurface is required.

Cleaning the engine compartment and

engine/transmission before beginning the
removal procedure will help keep tools clean
and organised.

An engine hoist or A-frame will also be

necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine/transmission out
of the vehicle.

If this is the first time you have removed an

engine, an assistant should ideally be
available. Advice and aid from someone more
experienced would also be helpful. There are
many instances when one person cannot
simultaneously perform all of the operations

4.3 Removing the splash guard panel from

under the radiator

required when lifting the engine out of the

Plan the operation ahead of time. Before

starting work, arrange for the hire of, or obtain,
all of the tools and equipment you will need.
Some of the equipment necessary to perform
engine/transmission removal and installation
safely and with relative ease (in addition to an
engine hoist) is as follows: a heavy-duty trolley

jack, complete sets of spanners and sockets

as described in the front of this manual,
wooden blocks, and plenty of rags and
cleaning solvent for mopping up spilled oil,
coolant and fuel. If the hoist must be hired,
make sure that you arrange for it in advance,
and perform all of the operations possible
without it beforehand. This will save you
money and time.

Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for quite

a while. An engineering works will be required
to perform some of the work which the do-it-
yourselfer cannot accomplish without special
equipment. These places often have a busy
schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine, in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.

Always be extremely careful when removing

and refitting the engine/transmission. Serious
injury can result from careless actions. Plan
ahead and take your time, and a job of this
nature, although major, can be accomplished

The engine and transmission is removed by

lifting upwards from the engine compartment.


Note: The engine can be removed from the car

only as a complete unit with the transmission;
the two are then separated for overhaul. The
engine/transmission is lifted upwards out of
the engine compartment.

1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground.
Chock the rear wheels, then firmly apply the
handbrake. Jack up the front of the vehicle,

4.7 Removing the battery clamp

and securely support it on axle stands (see

"Jacking, towing and wheel changing").

2 Remove both front wheels, then unbolt the
wing moulding and front wheelarch liner from
the right-hand side for access to the engine
(see illustration).
Unbolt and remove the centre splash guard
panel from under the radiator. The panel is
secured by clips at its rear edge (see
Position a suitable container beneath the
radiator, then unscrew the drain plug and drain
the coolant. Note: The engine should be cola
before draining the coo/ant.
Also drain the
cylinder block by unscrewing the drain plug.
Save the coolant if it is fit for re-use.
5 With the coolant drained, refit and tighter
the drain plugs.
6 Remove the bonnet as described in Chap-
ter 11. Alternatively, disconnect the support
struts from the bonnet, and support it in the

fully-open position.

Saab technicians fit
extensions to the top of the
struts in order to open the
bonnet further.

7 Remove the battery with reference to
Chapter 5A (see illustration).

Models with LH-Jetronic fuel injection


8 Release the strap from the fuel filter, and

position the filter to one side on the bulkhead.

9 Unscrew the bolts securing the steady bar
to the ABS brake unit.

10 Disconnect all wiring from the battery tray

and unplug the wiring connector for the ABS

11 Disconnect the battery positive cable at

the terminal block on the battery tray, anc
unbolt the battery negative cable from the
earthing point on the front wing.
12 Move the wiring to one side, then unbolt
the battery tray from the engine compartment.
13 On the left-hand side of the engine
compartment, disconnect the wiring from the
washer fluid level sensor and pump.
14 Disconnect the washer tube from the

Engine removal and general overhaul procedures 2B•5

H 28524

4.33 Method of removing the leads from

the TSI socket

reservoir, and plug the reservoir to prevent
15 Unscrew the mounting screws, and
remove the washer reservoir from the engine
16 Disconnect the wiring plug from the airflow
17 Release the toggle clips securing the air

cleaner to the airflow meter, then disconnect

the turbo inlet hose (where applicable) and

withdraw the airflow meter from the engine

compartment, together with the air cleaner


18 Where applicable, release the connector

from the turbo solenoid valve. Loosen the clips
and disconnect the hoses, then unscrew the
fixing screws and remove the valve.
19 Carefully disconnect the coil HT lead at
the distributor cap, and position it to one side.
20 Disconnect the Hall sensor wiring

connector from the side of the distributor.

21 Release the cable-tie securing the knock

detector lead, then loosen the clips and
disconnect the top hose from the radiator and

thermostat housing.
22 On Turbo models, loosen the clips on the

turbo delivery hose, disconnect the bypass

valve/pressure and transmission hoses, and

remove the delivery hose from its location on

the transmission.
23 Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle valve housing and bracket, with
reference to Chapter 4A.
24 Loosen the clip and disconnect the fuel

return hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

Tie the hose to the bulkhead.
25 Loosen the clip and disconnect the fuel
supply hose from the fuel filter from the fuel

distribution rail. Position the hose behind the

false bulkhead.
26 Remove the cover from the left-hand end

of the heater air inlet plenum chamber at the
rear of the engine compartment. At the same

time, release the wiring loom and knock

detector lead from the cable-tie.

27 Prise the rubber moulding from the top
edge of the false bulkhead panel, then

unscrew the bolts and lift out the panel.

28 On models with ABS, release the strap

4.42 Upper hose on the coolant expansion


and lift out the braking system ECU. Place the
unit to one side.
29 Unbolt and remove the bracket for the
30 Release the connector from the Bosch LH
fuel injection ECU, and position the ECU on
the left-hand wing panel.
31 Unbolt and remove the bracket for the

Bosch LH fuel injection ECU.

32 Make a note of the position of all wiring in
the engine compartment, to ensure correct

refitting. Unplug all wiring from the engine.
33 Remove the TSI (diagnostic) socket as
follows. Insert a small screwdriver in turn in the
grey/red lead (pin 1) socket, and the
violet/white lead (pin 2) socket, then depress

the retaining tab and pull out the leads (see

illustration). Make a note of the lead positions
for future reference.
34 Remove the remaining cable-tie for the
knock detector, then unplug the connector
and position the lead on the front wing.

35 Position the main wiring loom on top of the

36 Disconnect the vacuum hose between the
inlet manifold and the pressure sensor at the
T-piece connector.

37 Loosen the clips and disconnect the
heater hoses at the engine - to ensure correct
refitting, identify each hose for position.
Release the cable-tie for the airflow meter
wiring, and position the heater hoses to one

38 On the bulkhead, disconnect the wiring for
the electronic speedometer, then pull the wire
through the rubber grommet in the bottom of
the bulkhead panel, and position it on top of
the engine.
39 On automatic transmission • models,
release the clip securing the kickdown cable to
the gear selector cable, then release the
cable-tie securing the cable to the steering
servo pump pipe.
40 On automatic transmission models, clean
the area around the transmission fluid cooler
connections, then unscrew the union bolts and
disconnect the fluid hoses from the

transmission fluid cooler. Recover the copper
washers, and store them in a safe place. Wrap

4.44a Disconnect the wiring for the air

conditioning compressor . . .

4.44b . . . then unscrew the mounting bolts

masking tape around the ends of the hoses,
and similarly cover the apertures of the
transmission, to prevent the entry of dust and
dirt. Tie the hoses to the engine subframe.

41 Disconnect the gearchange rod (manual
transmission models) or the selector control
(automatic transmission models) from the

transmission. The selector control is removed

as follows. Unscrew the nut from the gear
selector linkage and outer cable, then prise the
cable from the clip, together with the rubber
bush, using a screwdriver. Retain the cable
behind the brake fluid reservoir.

42 Loosen the clips and disconnect the hoses
from the coolant expansion tank (see
Unscrew the mounting bolt,
release the cable-tie, then disconnect the
wiring and remove the expansion tank from
the right-hand side of the engine
43 Where fitted, remove the air conditioning
drivebelt by loosening the tension locknut,
moving the compressor towards the engine
and slipping the drivebelt from the pulleys.

44 Position a suitable piece of cardboard
over the right-hand side of the radiator and
crossmember to prevent damage, then
disconnect the wiring from the air conditioning
compressor and unscrew the mounting bolts
(see illustrations).
Loosen the clip and disconnect the hose
from the water pump, then lift the compressor
and hose, and place them on the radiator

Рассказать друзьям