SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 10

2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures

5.20a View of the bolts securing the timing

cover to the cylinder block

15 Unscrew the upper bolt for the alternator,
and the two securing bolts for the power
steering pump, then withdraw the bracket and

the steady bar.
16 Loosen the alternator lower mounting bolt,
and swivel the alternator to one side.
17 Unscrew the mounting bolts, and remove
the alternator and power steering pump
mounting bracket from the timing cover.

18 On B202 engines, place a suitable

container beneath the oil filter to catch spilt oil,
then wipe clean the oil cooler pipe unions on
the filter housing. Identify the pipes for
position. Unscrew the unions, and disconnect
the oil cooler pipes from the housing. Position
the pipes clear of the timing cover.
19 On B202 engines, unscrew the bolts and
remove the pulley from the water pump drive

flange. Lever the coolant pipe away from the
rear of the cylinder block, so that it is
disconnected from the water pump housing.

Position the pipe well clear of the timing cover,
and remove the sealing O-ring.

20 Unscrew and remove the bolts securing
the timing cover to the cylinder block, sump
and cylinder head. Note that the bolts are of
different lengths. Note the two upper bolts on
the cylinder head and the two lower bolts in
the sump (see illustrations).
21 Taking care not to damage the cylinder
head gasket, carefully withdraw the timing
cover complete with the oil pump from the
nose of the crankshaft. Where fitted, remove
the gaskets from the cylinder block.

5.20b Removing one of the bolts securing

the timing cover to the sump

22 Thoroughly clean all traces of gasket and
sealant from the contact faces of the timing
cover, sump, cylinder head and block. Make
sure that the groove in the sump is free of all
sealant.
23 Remove the oil pump from the timing
cover, with reference to Section 11.

Refitting

24 Apply a bead of suitable sealant to the
sump. Locate new gaskets on the cylinder
block - if necessary, hold the gaskets in
position using a little grease. Where there are
no gaskets fitted, apply a bead of suitable
sealant to the timing cover flanges (see
illustration).

25 Carefully locate the timing cover on the
cylinder block, at the same time engaging the
oil supply pipe from the block with the hole
near the bottom of the timing cover, where
applicable.
26 Insert and tighten the timing cover

retaining bolts to the specified torque. On
B202 engines, do not fit the oil cooler pipe clip
retaining bolts at this stage. Insert loosely the
upper and lower bolts securing the timing
cover to the cylinder head and sump. Check

the dimension from the end of the oil supply

pipe to the oil pump flange is 25 ± 1 mm
(see illustration). Use vernier calipers to make

the check
27 On B202 engines, fit a new O-ring to the
end of the coolant pipe, then locate it in the
water pump housing.

25±1

mm

5.20c Removing the upper bolts securing

the timing cover to the cylinder head

28 Refit the oil pump with reference to
Section 11.
29 Tighten the two upper and two lower
timing cover bolts to the specified torque.
30 On B202 engines, refit the pulley to the
water pump drive flange, and tighten the bolts.
Check that the O-rings on the oil cooler pipe
unions are in good condition, then reconnect
the pipes to the oil filter housing, and tighten
the unions to the specified torque.
31 Refit the alternator and power steering
pump mounting bracket, and tighten the bolts.
32 Swivel the alternator towards the engine,
then refit the alternator/power steering pump
bracket and the steady bar, and tighten all
bolts to the specified torque.

33 On B202 engines, locate the clips on the
oil cooler pipes, then insert the retaining bolts
and tighten securely. Insert and tighten the

bolt securing the coolant pipe to the top of the

timing cover.
34 Slide the crankshaft pulley onto the
crankshaft, then insert the pulley bolt. Tighten
the bolt to the specified torque, while an
assistant holds the crankshaft stationary using
a wide-bladed screwdriver inserted in the
starter ring gear.
35 On B202 engines, refit the idler pulley and

backplate. Insert the centre bolt, but leave it

finger-tight at this stage.
36 Refit the drivebelt tensioner assembly, and
tighten the bolts. Before locating the assembly
on the stub, apply a little grease to the bearing
surfaces (see illustration).

5.24 Sealant on the timing cover flanges

5.26 Oil supply pipe fitting dimension on

the B202 engine

5.36 Apply a little grease to the bearing

surfaces

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7

5.46 Removing the engine oil filler cap

(model with LH fuel injection)

37 On B202 engines, fully tighten the idler

pulley centre bolt.

38 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt with reference
to Chapter 1.
39 Where applicable, refit and tension the air
conditioning compressor drivebelt with
reference to Chapter 1.
40 Refit the moulding and front wheelarch
liner under the right-hand front wing, and
tighten the retaining screws.
41 Check that the sump drain plug and the
coolant drain plug are tight, and that the
splash guard is fitted under the radiator. Refit
the right-hand front wheel, and lower the car
to the ground.
42 Where applicable, refit and tighten the bolt
securing the coolant pipe above the knock
sensor.

6.2 Removing the oil pump drive dog from

the crankshaft

43 On B202 engines, refit the engine oil
dipstick tube bracket, and tighten the bolt.
44 Where applicable, refit the starter motor.
45 Reconnect the battery negative lead.
46 Fill the engine with the correct grade and
quantity of oil (see illustration).
47 Refill the cooling system, with reference to
Chapter 1.
48 Start the engine, and run it to normal
operating temperature. Check for oil and
coolant leaks.

6.3a "INL" mark on the inlet balance shaft

front bearing

Removal

1 Position the crankshaft at TDC compression

for No 1 piston (timing chain end of the engine)
as described in Section 3.
2 Remove the timing cover as described in
Section 5. Also remove the oil pump drive dog
from the crankshaft (see illustration).

B204/B234 (balance shaft) engines

3 The balance shafts are "timed" at TDC, but
since they rotate at twice the speed of the
crankshaft, they may also be correctly "timed"
at BDC. Check that the timing marks on the
shafts are correctly aligned with the marks on
the front of the cylinder block.

Apply dabs of paint to the

chain and sprockets, to
ensure correct refitting.

6.3b "EXH" mark on the exhaust balance

shaft front bearing

6.4a Unscrew the bolts .

Note that the balance shaft sprockets are
marked "inlet" and "exhaust" for their positions,
but both front bearings are marked identically.
However, as the bearings are located with

single bolts, the "inlet" and "exhaust" marks will
always be correctly located at the top of the
bearings (see illustrations).
4 Unbolt the balance shaft chain upper guide,
then remove the tensioner and side guide (see
illustrations).
5 Unbolt the idler from the block, then release
the chain from the balance shaft sprockets
and crankshaft sprocket. Note that the idler is
in two parts (see illustrations).

6.4b ... and remove the balance shaft

chain upper guide

6.4c Note how the upper guide locates on

the dowel

6.4d Removing the balance shaft chain

tensioner...

Note: This Section includes the removal of the

balance shaft drive chain on later engines.

2A•8 Engine in-car repair procedures

6.4e . . . and side guide

6.5a Loosen ...

6.5c . . . then withdraw the idler and

remove the balance shaft chain

6.5d The idler is in two parts

6.5b ... and remove the idler retaining bolt

(note alignment marks between idler and

chain)...

6 Slide the balance shaft chain sprocket from
the front of the crankshaft (see illustration).

Note that the word "Saab" is facing outwards.
7 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and remove the
sprockets from the ends of the balance shafts.

To do this, hold the sprockets stationary with a
chain-type oil filter removal tool or similar.

Keep the sprockets identified for position.

All engines

8 Remove the cylinder head cover as
described in Section 4.
9 Unscrew and remove the timing chain
tensioner from the rear of the cylinder head.
To do this, first unscrew the centre bolt and

remove the spring, then unscrew and remove
the tensioner from the cylinder head (see
illustrations).

6.6 Removing the balance shaft chain

sprocket from the front of the crankshaft

6.9a Unscrew the centre bolt

6.9b . . . and remove the spring

6.9c . . . then unscrew the tensioner.

6.9d ... and remove it from the cylinder

head

6.9e The timing chain tensioner

components

Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9

6.11 Removing the sprocket from the end

of the inlet camshaft

10 While holding each camshaft stationary

with a spanner on the flats at the
flywheel/driveplate end of the camshaft,
loosen (but do not remove) the camshaft
sprocket securing bolts.
11 Unscrew and remove the bolt, and
withdraw the sprocket from the end of the inlet
camshaft (see illustration). Hold the timing
chain with one hand, and release the sprocket
from it with the other hand.
12 Identify each sprocket for position. Note
that each sprocket has a projection which
engages with a cut-out in the end of the
camshaft.
13 Unscrew the bolt and withdraw the
sprocket from the end of the exhaust
camshaft, then disengage it from the chain
(see illustrations).
14 Unscrew the bolts, and remove the timing
chain fixed guide from the cylinder block (see
illustrations).
15 Disengage the timing chain, then remove

the sprocket from the end of the crankshaft.
On balance shaft engines, first unbolt the

retainer from the cylinder block (see
illustrations). If necessary, remove the
Woodruff key from the groove in the
crankshaft using a screwdriver.

Inspection

16 The timing chain (see illustration) (and

where applicable, the balance shaft chain)
should be renewed if the sprockets are worn,
or if the chain is loose and noisy in operation.

6.13a Remove the retaining bolt...

It's a good idea to renew the chain as a matter
of course if the engine is stripped down for

overhaul. The rollers on a very badly worn
chain may be slightly grooved. To avoid future
problems, if there's any doubt at all about the
chain's condition, renew it. The chain
tensioner and guides should be examined and
if necessary renewed at the same time (refer to
Section 7).

17 Examine the teeth on the crankshaft
sprocket, camshaft sprockets (and where
applicable, the balance shaft sprockets) for
wear. Each tooth forms an inverted "V". If
worn, the side of each tooth under tension will
be slightly concave ("hooked") in shape, when
compared with the other side of the tooth (ie
one side of the inverted "V" will be concave
when compared with the other). If the teeth
appear to be worn, the sprockets must be
renewed.

Refitting

18 Locate the Woodruff key in the groove in

the crankshaft. Tap it fully into the groove,

making sure that it is parallel to the crankshaft.
19 Engage the timing chain with the
crankshaft sprocket, then locate the
crankshaft sprocket on the end of the
crankshaft, making sure that it locates
correctly on the Woodruff key. Where the

timing chain has bright links, locate the single
bright link at the bottom of the sprocket,
aligned with the slot in the sprocket. On

6.13b ... then disengage the sprocket from

the chain

6.14a Unscrew the bolts . . .

6.14b . . . and remove the timing chain fixed

guide

6.15a Removing the timing chain retainer

(arrowed) from the cylinder block

6.15b Removing the crankshaft sprocket 6.16 Timing chain removed from the engine

from the end of the crankshaft