SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 7

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

25.11 a Tools required for spark plug

removal, gap adjustment and refitting

of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug
transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,
a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).

13 If the tip and insulator nose are covered
with hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should

the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.

14 If the insulator nose is covered with light

tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the

mixture is correct, and it is likely that the
engine is in good condition.
15 The electrode gap is of considerable
importance as, if it is too large or too small, the
size of the spark and its efficiency will be
seriously impaired. The gap should be set to

the value given in the Specifications.

25.16b Measuring the spark plug gap with

a wire gauge...

25.11b Removing a spark plug

16 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler
blade or wire gauge and then bend open, or
close, the outer plug electrode until the correct
gap is achieved (see illustrations). The centre
electrode should never be bent, as this will
crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if
nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap
is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a
firm sliding fit.
17 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting

tools are available from most motor accessory
shops, or from some spark plug

manufacturers.
18 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that

the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and
that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are
clean.

25.16c . . . and adjusting the gap using a

special adjusting tool

25.16a Measuring the spark plug gap with a

feeler blade

It is very often difficult to insert spark

plugs into their holes without cross-

threading them. To avoid this possibility,
fit a short length of 5/16-inch internal
diameter rubber hose over the end of
the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as

a universal joint to help align the plug
with the plug hole. Should the plug
begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip
on the spark plug, preventing thread
damage to the aluminium cylinder head.
Remove the rubber hose, and tighten
the plug to the specified torque using
the spark plug socket and a torque
wrench. Fit the remaining spark plugs in
the same manner.

Models with Direct Ignition

19 Refit the ignition cartridge using a reversal
of the removal procedure. Tighten the four
screws to the specified torque.

Models without Direct Ignition

20 Connect the HT leads in their correct
order, and refit the rubber grommet.
21 Refit the inspection cover, and tighten the
retaining screws.

26.1 a Withdrawing the dipstick from the

front of the gearbox

26.1 b Upper and lower level marks on the

gearbox oil level dipstick

Note: A suitable Allen key will be required to
unscrew the manual transmission filler and
level plugs (as applicable). This can be
obtained from most motor factors, or from

your Saab dealer.

1

•

14

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

1

•

15

26.2a Location of manual transmission

filler, level and drain plugs (later models)

1 Filler plug 2 Level plug 3 Drain plug

26.4 Topping-up the manual gearbox oil

level (later model shown)

1 On early m o d e l s , o i l level dipstick is

provided on the front of the gearbox,and there

is no need to jack up the vehicle. Push the

spring clip to one side, then pull out the

dipstick. Wipe clean the dipstick,then re-

insert it fully again. Withdraw it, and check that

the oil level is between the upper and lower

limits (see illustrations).

2 On later models, jack up the front and rear

of the car,and support on axle stands(see

Jacking, towing and wheel changing"). Make

sure that the car is level. Remove the left-hand

front wheel in order to view the level plug on

the side of the transmission. Wipe clean the
area around the.level plug,which is located on

the side of the transmission behind the left-
hand driveshaft. Unscrew the plug, and wipe it

clean (see illustrations). The oil level should

reach the lower edge of the level hole. A

certain amount of oil will have gathered behind

the level plug, and will trickle out when it is

removed;this does not necessarily indicate

that the level is correct. To ensure that a true

level is established, wait until the initial trickle

has stopped.
3 If the oil level requires topping-up, wipe

clean the area around the filler plug, which is

located on top of the transmission. Unscrew

the plug, and wipe it clean.

4 Add oil as necessary until the level is up to

the upper mark on the dipstick on early

models, or until a steady trickle of oil can be

seen emerging from the level hole on later

26.2b Unscrewing the manual transmission

level plug (arrowed)

models (see illustration). Use only good-
quality oil of the specified type. A funnel will be
helpful when adding oil to the transmission
through the filler plug aperture.
5 When the level is correct, refit and tighten

the filler plug (and where necessary, the level

plug) to the specified torque wrench setting.

Wipe off any spilt oil.
6 Where necessary, refit the left-hand front
wheel, and lower the car to the ground.

27 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 Take the car on a short journey to warm the

transmission up to normal operating
temperature, then park the car on level
ground. The fluid level is checked using the
dipstick located on the front of the
transmission.
2 With the engine idling, select "D" for
approximately 15 seconds, then engage "R"
and wait a further 15 seconds. Do this again in
position "P", and leave the engine idling.
3 Withdraw the dipstick from the tube, and
wipe all the fluid from its end with a clean rag
or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick back
into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw
it once more. Note the fluid level on the end of
the dipstick - there are two sets of level marks,
the lower ones are for a fluid temperature of
40°C, and the upper ones are for a
temperature of 80°C (see illustration). If the
engine is at normal operating temperature, use
the upper level marks.
4 If topping-up is necessary, add fluid as
necessary via the dipstick tube until the level is
on the upper mark on the dipstick. Note:
Never overfill the transmission so that the fluid
level is above the upper mark. Use a funnel
with a fine mesh gauze, to avoid spillage and
to ensure that no foreign matter enters the
transmission.
5 After topping-up, take the car on a short run
to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck the
level again, topping-up if necessary.
6 Always maintain the level between the two
dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall
below the lower mark, fluid starvation may
result, which could lead to severe transmission
damage.

1 With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on stands, turn the steering onto

full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.

Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing

the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for
signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the
rubber, which may allow the grease to escape,
and lead to water and grit entry into the joint.
Also check the security and condition of the
retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the

inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration
is found, the gaiters should be renewed as

described in Chapter 8.
2 At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate
the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the
inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or possibly a loose
driveshaft retaining nut.

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the

front and rear of the car and support it
securely on axle stands (see "Jacking, towing
and wheel changing"). Remove the front and

rear roadwheels.

2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction
material remaining on each brake pad can be
measured through the aperture in the caliper
body. If any pad's friction material is worn to
the specified thickness or less, all four pads on
that axle must be renewed as a set.
3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads
should be removed and cleaned. The
operation of the caliper can then also be
checked, and the condition of the brake discs
can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to
Chapter 9 for further information.
4 On completion, refit the wheels and lower
the car to the ground.

27.3 Fluid level dipstick on the automatic

transmission

1•16

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

31.3 Rocking the roadwheel to check

steering /suspension components

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front
and rear of the car and securely support on
axle stands. Remove all wheels.
2 Thoroughly examine all brake lines and
brake flexible hoses for security and damage.

To check the flexible hoses, bend them slightly

in order to show up any cracking of the rubber.
3 Check the complete braking system for any
signs of brake fluid leakage.
4 Where necessary, carry out repairs to the
braking system with reference to Chapter 9.

1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front
and rear of the car, and securely support it on
axle stands.

2 Visually inspect all balljoint dust covers and

the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits,
chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these
components will cause loss of lubricant,
together with dirt and water entry, resulting in

rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering
gear.

3 Grasp each front roadwheel in turn at the 12
o'clock and 6 o'clock positions, and try to rock

it (see illustration). Very slight freeplay may
be felt, but if the movement is appreciable,

further investigation is necessary to determine
the source. Continue rocking the wheel while
an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the

movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at

fault. If the freeplay is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the

suspension joints or mountings.
4 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3
o'clock positions, and try to rock it as before.

Any movement felt now may again be caused

by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer
balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be
obvious.

5 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes

by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected, as the
mountings are made of rubber, but excessive
wear should be obvious. Also check the
condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking

for splits, cracks or contamination of the

rubber.

6 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around
the front suspension struts and rear shock
absorbers. Should any fluid be noticed, the
suspension strut/shock absorber is defective

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

33 Air cleaner filter element

renewal

1 The air cleaner is located on the front left-
hand corner of the engine compartment, and
the air inlet is taken from the front of the car
behind the radiator grille area. On early models
with the LH-Jetronic fuel injection system, the
air cleaner element is rectangular in shape,
whereas on later models with the Trionic
engine management system, the air cleaner
element is cylindrical in shape.

Models with LH-Jetronic fuel

injection system

2 Remove the washer fluid reservoir from the
front left-hand corner of the engine
compartment (see Chapter 12). If preferred,
the reservoir may be positioned to one side,
leaving the fluid inside.
3 Loosen the clip and disconnect the air
ducting from the air cleaner. On some models,
it will be necessary to completely remove the
airflow meter. On Turbo models, also

disconnect the rubber socket from the
turbocharger.
4 Release the toggle clips, and remove the
top cover from the air cleaner filter housing.
5 Lift out the air cleaner filter element, noting
which way round it is fitted.
6 Wipe clean the inner surfaces of the cover
and main housing, then locate the new
element in the housing, making sure that the
sealing lip is at the bottom, and correctly
engaged with the edge of the housing.
7 Refit the cover, and secure with the toggle
clips.
8 Reconnect the air ducting/airflow meter, as
applicable.
9 Refit the washer fluid reservoir to the front
left-hand corner of the engine compartment.

Models with Trionic engine
management system

10 Disconnect the air ducting from the air
cleaner. Where necessary to provide

additional room, remove the air ducting
complete, by releasing the support strut and

internally, and should be renewed. Note:

Suspension struts/shock absorbers should
always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.
7 Lower the car to the ground.
8 The efficiency of the suspension struts and
shock absorbers may be checked by
depressing each corner of the car in turn. If the
struts/shock absorbers are in good condition,
the body will rise and then settle in its normal
position. If it continues to rise and fall, the
suspension strut or shock absorber is
probably suspect. Examine also the
suspension strut/shock absorber upper and
lower mountings for any signs of wear.
9 With the car standing on its wheels, have an
assistant turn the steering wheel back and
forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There
should be very little, if any, lost movement
between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If
this is not the case, closely observe the joints
and mountings previously described, but in
addition, check the steering column universal

joints for wear, and the rack-and-pinion

steering gear itself.

Note: If the car is used in a dusty or extremely

polluted environment, the ventilation air filter
should be renewed more frequently.

1 Unscrew the screw, and remove the cover

from the top of the evaporator/heater housing.
2 Slide out the ventilation air filter, then insert
the new filter.
3 Refit the cover and tighten the screw.

disconnecting the wiring from the air
temperature sensor (refer to Chapter 4A) (see
illustrations).
11 Release the toggle clips and remove the
Cover from the air cleaner housing (see
illustrations).

12 Pull out the element from the housing (see
illustration).

33.10a Release the air ducting support

strut..

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

33.10b ... and disconnect the wiring from

the air temperature sensor...

33.10c . . . then loosen the clips and

disconnect the air ducting (Trionic)

33.11 a Release the toggle clips . . .

33.11b ... and remove the cover from the

air cleaner housing (Trionic)

13 Wipe clean the inner surfaces of the cover
and housing, then insert the new element.
14 Refit the cover, and secure with the toggle

clips. Note that the "UP" facing arrow must

point upwards (see illustration).

15 Reconnect/refit the air ducting.

3 With all the fluid drained, wipe clean the

plug and refit it to the automatic transmission
housing. Tighten the plug to the specified

torque.
4 Unscrew the three bolts, and remove the
filter cover from the bottom of the
transmission (see illustration).
5 Remove the filter from its location. Remove
the O-rings, and obtain new ones.
6 Wipe clean the filter location and the cover,

then fit the new filter using new O-rings.
Tighten the cover bolts securely.

7 Fill the automatic transmission with the

33.14 "UP" facing mark on the air cleaner

housing cover

Every 48 000 miles or 3 years

Warning: Wait until the engine is

cold before starting this

procedure. Do not allow antifreeze

to come in contact with your skin,

or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle,

Rinse off spills immediately, with plenty of
water. Never leave antifreeze lying around

in an open container - antifreeze can be

fatal if ingested.

Cooling system draining

1 With the engine completely cold, unscrew

and remove the expansion tank filler cap. Turn
the cap a few turns anti-clockwise, then wait

34.4 Automatic transmission filter

components, and drain plug (arrowed)

specified grade and quantity of fluid. Referring
to Section 27, top it up to the correct level.
Use the lower set of dipstick markings first,

then take the car for a run. With the fluid at

operating temperature, re-check the fluid level
using the upper set of dipstick markings.

until any pressure remaining in the system is
released. Fully unscrew the cap and remove it.

2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the car and support on axle stands (see
"Jacking, towing and wheel changing").
3 Remove the centre panel from beneath the
radiator. Unscrew the retaining bolts, then
release the panel from the clips.

4 Position a suitable container beneath the
lower right-hand side of the radiator.

1•17

1 Take the car on a short journey to warm the

transmission up to normal operating
temperature. Position the car over an

inspection pit, or alternatively jack up the front

and rear of the car and support on axle stands

(see "Jacking, towing and wheel changing").
Whichever method is used, make sure that the

car is level for checking the fluid level later.

2 Position a suitable container beneath the
transmission, then unscrew the drain plug and

Warning: The fluid will be very

hot, so take necessary

precautions to prevent scalding.

The use of thick waterproof

gloves is recommended.

33.12 Removing the air cleaner element

from the housing (Trionic)

allow the fluid to drain. Note that a special key
is required to unscrew the plug.