SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 6


Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

1 Working on each seat belt in turn, carefully
examine the seat belt webbing for cuts, or for
any signs of serious fraying or deterioration.
Pull the belt all the way out, and examine the
full extent of the webbing.
2 Fasten and unfasten the belt, ensuring that

the locking mechanism holds securely, and

releases properly when intended. Check also

that the retracting mechanism operates
correctly when the belt is released.
3 Check the security of all seat belt mountings
and attachments which are accessible,
without removing any trim or other
components, from inside the vehicle.

1 The following work can be carried out by the
home mechanic, but if an electronic fault is
apparent, it will be necessary to take the car to

a Saab dealer, who will have the necessary
diagnostic equipment to extract fault codes
from the system.
2 Turn the ignition switch to the drive position
(warning lights on), and check that the SRS
(Supplementary Restraint System) warning
light is illuminated for six seconds. After this

period the light should go out, indicating that

the system has been checked and is
functioning correctly.
3 If the warning light remains on or refuses to
light, have the system checked by a Saab
4 Visually examine the steering wheel centre
pad and the passenger airbag module for
external damage. If there is any doubt if
damage is evident, consult a Saab dealer.
5 In the interests of safety, make sure that
there are no loose items inside the car which
could be thrown onto the airbag modules in
the event of an accident.

1 Working around the vehicle, clean and then
lubricate the hinges of the doorg and tailgate
with a light machine oil.

2 Lubricate the bonnet release mechanism,
hinges and safety locks with a smear of
petroleum jelly:
3 Check carefully the security and operation
of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them
where required. Check the operation of the
central locking system (if fitted).
4 Check the condition and operation of the
tailgate struts, renewing them if either is
leaking or no longer able to support the
tailgate securely when raised.
5 On completion, check the operation of all

door locks, tailgate/boot locks and the fuel
filler flap. Check that the child safety catches
on the rear doors operate correctly.

Caution: Before carrying out any
work on the vehicle battery, read
through the precautions given in

"Safety first!" at the beginning of

this manual.

1 The battery is located on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. The
exterior of the battery should be inspected
periodically for damage such as a cracked
case or cover.
2 Check the tightness of the battery cable
clamps to ensure good electrical connections,
and check the entire length of each cable for
cracks and frayed conductors. Check the
positive cable between the battery and the
starter motor.

3 If corrosion (visible as white, fluffy deposits)

is evident, remove the cables from the battery

terminals, clean them with a small wire brush,
then refit them. Corrosion can be kept to a

minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly

to the clamps and terminals after they are
4 Make sure that the battery retaining clamp

is secure. On later models, check that the
retaining bolt is tight.
5 Corrosion on the retaining clamp and

the battery terminals can be removed
with a solution of water and baking soda.
Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with plain
6 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by
corrosion should be covered with a zinc-
based primer, then painted.
7 Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5A.
8 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5
and in the preliminary Sections of this

1 Check the headlights and front foglights for
damage such as stone chipping.
2 Check the headlight beam adjustment with
reference to Chapter 12, noting that the tyres
must be correctly inflated for an accurate setting.
Where a headlight beam adjustment switch is

fitted, make sure that it is set to zero

before making any alterations to the beam
3 If necessary, adjust the front foglight beam
alignment at the adjustment screws either on
the top front corners of the unit, or underneath

the unit. An approximate adjustment can be
made by directing the beam vertically parallel
to the ground and horizontally parallel to the
centre-line of the car.

Instruments and electrical

1 Check the operation of all instruments and

electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn to check that it functions
properly. Check the function of the heating, air
conditioning and automatic climate control

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road "feel".
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are
no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive "sloppiness", or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering, or when driving over bumps. Check
that the power steering system operates
correctly. Check that the cruise control system
(where fitted) operates correctly.


6 Check the performance of the engine,
clutch (manual transmission), transmission
and driveshafts. On Turbo models,
check that the boost pressure needle moves
up to the red zone briefly during sharp
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the
engine, clutch (manual transmission) and
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation I
when accelerating.
9 On manual transmission models, check
that the clutch action is smooth and
progressive, that the drive is taken up
smoothly, and that the pedal travel is correct.
Also listen for any noises when the clutch
pedal is depressed. Check that all gears can

be engaged smoothly, without noise, and that

the gear lever action is not abnormally vague
or "notchy".

10 On automatic transmission models, make

sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly
without snatching, and without an increase in
engine speed between changes. Check that all
the gear positions can be selected with the
vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they
should be referred to a Saab dealer.

11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from

the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven

slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

Carry out this check in both directions. If a
clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a
driveshaft joint, in which case, refer to Chap-



Check the operation and

performance of the braking

12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to
one side when braking, and that the wheels do
nott lock prematurely when braking hard.
13 Check that there is no vibration through

the steering when braking.

14 Check that the handbrake operates

correctly, without excessive movement of the

ever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary

on a slope.
15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit

where applicable) as follows. With the engine

off. depress the footbrake four or five times to

exhaust the vacuum. Start the engine, holding
the brake pedal depressed. As the engine
starts, there should be a noticeable "give" in
the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow
the engine to run for at least two minutes, and
then switch it off. If the brake pedal is

depressed now, it should be possible to
detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is
depressed. After about four or five

aplications, no further hissing should be

1 Check all crankcase ventilation and vacuum
hoses for damage and leakage (refer to

Chapter 4). Where necessary, remove the
hoses and clear them of any blockage.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces,

gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil

leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas

around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil

filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that,

over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -

what you are really looking for is any indication
of a serious leak. Should a leak be found,

renew the offending gasket or oil seal by
referring to the appropriate Chapters in this

2 Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in
place, and in good condition. Clips which are
broken or missing can lead to chafing of the
hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause
more serious problems in the future.
3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or

deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the

hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the

hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling
system components. Hose clips can pinch
and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks.
4 Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the
cooling system will usually show up as white-
or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with reference
to Chapter 3.
5 Check that the pressure cap on the
expansion tank is fully tightened, and shows
no sign of coolant leakage.
6 With the car raised, inspect the petrol tank
and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other
damage. The connection between the filler
neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes, a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal

fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay

particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew

damaged sections as necessary.

8 From within the engine compartment, check
the security of all fuel hose attachments and

pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and
vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and

1 On the B202 (non-balance shaft) engine, the
main (multi-grooved) drivebelt is used to drive 1
the water pump, alternator and power steering
pump from the crankshaft pulley. On models

fitted with air conditioning, a further crankshaft

pulley drives the air conditioning compressor

via a V-type drivebelt (see illustration). The
main drivebelt is tensioned either manually or
automatically - the air conditioning drivebelt is
manually adjusted using an adjustable idler
2 On B204 and B234 (balance shaft) engines,
a single (multi-grooved) drivebelt is used to
drive the water pump, alternator and power
steering pump from the crankshaft pulley. A
single drivebelt is also used on models fitted
with air conditioning, but it is longer in order to
include the air conditioning compressor pulley.
The drivebelt is automatically tensioned, using
two idler pulleys and a tension spring.

H 28515

22.1 Auxiliary drivebelt configuration on the B202 engine

1 Alternator pulley (multi-groove belt)

2 Power steering pump pulley (multi-groove belt)
3 Multi-groove belt
4 Water pump pulley (multi-groove belt)
5 Air conditioning compressor pulley (V-type belt)

6 Air conditioning compressor drivebelt

(V-type belt)

7 Crankshaft pulley

8 Idler pulley (V-type belt)
9 Idler pulley (multi-groove belt)





Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

Checking the auxiliary drivebelt(s)

3 For better access to the drivebelt, apply the
handbrake then jack up the front of the car
and support it on axle stands. Remove the
right-hand front roadwheel, then remove the
front wing plastic moulding, followed by the
front section of the wing liner from under the
right-hand wheelarch.
4 Using a suitable socket and extension bar

fitted to the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the

crankshaft so that the entire length of the
drivebelt(s) can be examined. Examine the
drivebelt for cracks, splitting, fraying, or other
damage. Check also for signs of glazing (shiny

patches) and for separation of the belt plies.
Renew the belt if worn or damaged.
5 On the B202 engine, if the condition of the

A/C compressor drivebelt is satisfactory,

check the drivebelt tension as described
below under the relevant sub-heading.

Auxiliary (air conditioning

compressor) drivebelt (B202
engine) - removal, refitting and


6 If not already done, carry out the operations
described in paragraph 3.
7 Unscrew the locknut on the tensioner pulley
90°, then use a further spanner on the inner
nut to slide the pulley to its inner position on
the tensioning arm. Re-tighten the locknut.
8 Slip the drivebelt from the tensioner,
crankshaft and compressor pulleys.

Refitting and tensioning

9 Locate the drivebelt on all three pulleys,
then re-position the idler using a spanner on
the inner nut until it is possible to depress the
belt approximately 15 mm under firm thumb

pressure midway between the crankshaft and
compressor pulleys. Tighten the locknut. Note

that Saab technicians use a special tensioning
tool to set the drivebelt tension - if any doubt

exists about the tension of the belt, it should
be checked by a Saab dealer.
10 Refit the wing liner and plastic moulding,
and lower the car to the ground.

Auxiliary (multi-grooved) drivebelt

(B202 engine with manual
adjustment) - removal, refitting
and tensioning

11 If not already done, carry out the

operations described in paragraph 3.

12 On models fitted with air conditioning,

remove the compressor drivebelt as previously
described (paragraphs 6 to 8).
13 Loosen the idler pulley centre bolt a

quarter to a half a turn, then loosen the
adjustment nut until it is possible to slip the
drivebelt from the tensioner, crankshaft,
alternator, power steering pump and water
pump pulleys (see illustration).

Refitting and tensioning

14 Locate the drivebelt on all the pulleys, then

tighten the adjustment nut until it is possible to
depress the belt approximately 15 mm under
firm thumb pressure approximately a quarter

of the way along its upper run near the power
steering pump pulley. Tighten the idler pulley
centre bolt. Note that Saab technicians use a
special tensioning tool to set the drivebelt
tension - if any doubt exists about the tension
of the belt, it should be checked by a Saab
15 Refit the wing liner and plastic moulding,
and lower the car to the ground.

Auxiliary (multi-grooved) drivebelt

(non-balance shaft engines with
automatic tensioning) - removal
and refitting


16 If not already done, carry out the
operations described in paragraph 3.
17 On early B202 engines with air
conditioning, remove the compressor drivebelt
as previously described (paragraphs 6 to 8).
18 Using a socket on the tensioner pulley nut,

press the tensioner pulley down to release the
tension from the drivebelt.
19 Slip the drivebelt from the water pump
pulley (and where applicable, from the
compressor pulley). Release the tensioner
20 Remove the drivebelt from the remaining


21 Locate the drivebelt on all the pulleys

except the water pump (and where applicable,

the compressor pulley). Make sure that the
multi-grooves are all correctly seated.
22 Using the socket on the tensioner pulley

nut, press the tensioner pulley down until it is
possible to locate the drivebelt on the water
pump/compressor pulleys. Release the

tensioner pulley. The drivebelt tension will be
adjusted automatically with the engine
23 Refit the wing liner and plastic moulding,
and lower the car to the ground.

Auxiliary (multi-grooved) drivebelt

(balance shaft engines with

automatic tensioning) - removal
and refitting


24 If not already done, carry out the
operations described in paragraph 3.
25 The tensioner spring must now be
compressed and held in compression using a

home-made tool. Cut a length of flat metal bar

to the dimensions shown in the accompanying

illustration, then drill two holes and fit the bolts
as shown. First pull down the drivebelt on the
upper run to compress the spring, then
position the retaining tool over the cut-outs on
the tensioner bracket. Release the drivebelt,
and check that the tensioner is held in its
compressed position (see illustrations). Note
that the tensioner spring is very strong, and
considerable pressure is required to compress


22.13 Auxiliary drivebelt adjustment nut

(arrowed) on the B202 engine

22.25a Dimensions of the home-made tool

for retaining the auxiliary drivebelt

tensioner spring

22.25b Completed home-made tool for

retaining the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner


Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

22.25c Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner retainer

tool in position

26 Slip the drivebelt from the water pump,
power steering pump, crankshaft (and where
applicable, the compressor) pulleys.
27 Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
tensioner pulley to the bracket, then remove
the pulley and drivebelt from the engine

compartment (see illustration). Note: The

tensioner pulley bolt has a left-hand thread,
so it must be turned clockwise to unscrew it.


28 Locate the drivebelt in the tensioner

bracket, then refit the pulley and tighten the

retaining bolt.

29 Locate the drivebelt over all the pulleys,

making sure that the multi-groove side is

correctly engaged with the grooves on the


30 Pull down on the drivebelt to compress

the tensioner spring, then remove the retaining

tool and release the drivebelt. The drivebelt

tension will be finally adjusted automatically

with the engine running.

31 Refit the wing liner and plastic moulding,
and lower the car to the ground.

Warning: Do not attempt to open

the refrigerant circuit. Refer to the

precautions given in Chapter 3.

1 A sight glass is fitted to the air conditioning
system, in order to check the quantity of fluid

in the system. It is located on the top of the

receiver at the front right-hand corner of the

engine compartment on right-hand drive

models (see illustration), or on top of the

evaporator on the right-hand side of the

bulkhead in the engine compartment on left-

hand drive models.

2 Run the engine, and switch on the air


3 After a few minutes, inspect the sight glass,
and check the fluid flow. Clear fluid should be

visible - if not, the following will help to

diagnose the problem:

a) Clear fluid flow - the system is functioning

22.27 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt

tensioner pulley, followed by the drivebelt

b) No fluid flow - have the system checked

for leaks by a Saab dealer or air
conditioning specialist.

c) Continuous stream of clear air bubbles in

fluid - refrigerant level low - have the
system recharged by a Saab dealer or air
conditioning specialist.

1 Position the car over an inspection pit, or on
car ramps. Alternatively, raise the front and
rear of the car and support on axle stands (see
"Jacking, towing and wheel changing").

2 Examine the exhaust system over its entire

length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the pipe

retaining clamps, and condition of the system
with regard to rust and corrosion.
3 Look for signs of leakage - a leak normally
shows up as a black sooty stain. With the
engine running, have an assistant place a wad
of rag over the exhaust tailpipe, while you
listen for the rhythmic "fluffing" sound

characteristic of an exhaust leak.
4 It may be possible to repair a minor leak
yourself, using one of the proprietary exhaust
sealing products available, but more serious
damage will require the replacement of one or
more sections of the exhaust system - refer to
Chapter 4A.
5 Lower the vehicle to the ground on

23.1 Air conditioning system sight glass

Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.

Models without Direct Ignition

2 Remove the screws, and lift the inspection
cover from the centre of the camshaft cover.
3 If the marks on the spark plug (HT) leads
cannot be seen, mark the leads "1" to "4", to
correspond to the cylinder the lead serves
(No 1 cylinder is at the timing chain end of the

4 Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the
end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead
connection may be fractured. With all the
leads disconnected, lift the rubber grommet
from the distributor end of the cylinder head,
and position the leads to one side.

Models with Direct Ignition

5 Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
flywheel end of the ignition cartridge.
6 Unscrew the four screws securing the
ignition cartridge to the top of the cylinder
head. An Allen key will be required for this.
7 Where applicable, unscrew the bolt and
release the cartridge wiring support clip.

8 Where applicable, unscrew the bolt and
disconnect the earth lead.
9 Carefully lift the ignition cartridge, at the
same time releasing it from the tops of the
spark plugs.

All models

10 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the
spark plug recesses using a clean brush,
vacuum cleaner or compressed air before
removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping
into the cylinders.
11 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug
spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep
socket and extension bar (see illustrations).
Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug -
if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic
insulator may be broken off. As each plug is
removed, examine it as follows.
12 Examination of the spark plugs will give a

good indication of the condition of the engine.
If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean
and white, with no deposits, this is indicative



Warning: If the engine has been

running take care not to touch
the exhaust system, especially
the front section, as it may still be

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is

vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. If this type is
used and the engine is in good condition, the
spark plugs should not need attention
between scheduled replacement intervals.

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