SAAB 9000. Instruction - page 5

Weekly checks

4.1b "MIN" and "MAX" marks on the side of

the brake/clutch fluid reservoir (later

models)

should be maintained at or just below the "MAX"
mark at all times. With wear of the brake pads
the brake fluid level will drop slightly, however it
must never be allowed to reach the "MIN" mark.
2 If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area
around the filler cap with a clean rag before
removing the cap. If necessary, disconnect the
low fluid level warning switch wiring. When
adding fluid, pour it carefully into the reservoir,
to avoid spilling it on surrounding painted
surfaces (see illustrations). Be sure to use only

the specified brake hydraulic fluid, since mixing
different types of fluid can cause damage to the
system. See "Lubricants, fluids and capacities"
at the beginning of this Chapter.
3 When adding fluid, it is a good idea to

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid

can harm your eyes and damage

painted surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling and

pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been
standing open for some time, as it absorbs
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can

cause a dangerous loss of braking
effectiveness.

inspect the reservoir for contamination. The
system should be drained and refilled if

deposits, dirt particles or contamination are
seen in the fluid.
4 After filling the reservoir to the correct level,
make sure that the cap is refitted securely, to
avoid leaks and the entry of foreign matter. If
necessary, reconnect the wiring for the low
fluid level warning switch.

4.2a Unscrew the cap . . .

5 The fluid level in the reservoir will drop
slightly as the brake pads wear down during
normal operation. If the reservoir requires
repeated replenishment to maintain the proper
level, this is an indication of a hydraulic leak
somewhere in the system, which should be
investigated immediately.

Washer fluid

1 The windscreen/tailgate washer fluid
reservoir filler is located at the front left-hand
corner (early models) or front right-hand
corner (later models) of the engine
compartment, behind the headlight unit.

2 When topping-up the reservoir, a
screenwash additive should be added in the
quantities recommended on the bottle (see
illustration).

1 On later models the tyres have tread wear

safety bands, which will appear when the
tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm.
Tread wear can be monitored with a simple,

inexpensive device known as a tread depth
indicator gauge (see illustration).

2 Wheels and tyres should give no real

4.2b ... and top-up the brake/clutch fluid

reservoir with the specified fluid

problems in use, provided that a close eye is
kept on them with regard to excessive wear or

damage. To this end, the following points
should be noted.
3 Ensure that the tyre pressures are checked
regularly and maintained correctly (see
illustration). Checking should be carried out
with the tyres cold, not immediately after the
vehicle has been in use. If the pressures are
checked with the tyres hot, an apparently-high
reading will be obtained, owing to heat
expansion. Under no circumstances should an
attempt be made to reduce the pressures to the
quoted cold reading in this instance, or effective
under-inflation will result. Note that on later
models, the emergency spare wheel is of special
lightweight construction, and the tyre pressure is
higher than normal (see "Specifications"). This
spare wheel must only be used in an emergency,
and at speeds not exceeding 50 mph.

4 Note any abnormal tread wear (see
illustration). Tread pattern irregularities such
as feathering, flat spots, and more wear on
one side than the other, are indications of front
wheel alignment and/or balance problems. If
any of these conditions are noted, they should
be rectified as soon as possible.
5 Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, owing to excessive flexing of the casing,
and the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause excessive wear, not to
mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due
to heat build-up.
6 Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with

5.3 Topping-up the windscreen washer

fluid level

6.1 Checking a tyre tread depth with a

depth gauge

6.3 Checking a tyre pressure with a tyre

pressure gauge

1

•

6

Weekly checks

1

•

7

Tyre Tread Wear Patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Toe Wear

Uneven Wear

Underinflation
(wear on both sides)
Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber
(wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension
parts

Hard cornering
Reduce speed!

Overinflation
Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate

your car's tyres to the higher
pressures specified for maximum

load or sustained high speed,
don't forget to reduce the
pressures to normal afterwards.

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of

the tread which characterises
toe wear is best checked by
feel.

Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension

parts

Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension

parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Out-of-round brake disc/drum
Machine or renew

Reduced adhesion, harsher ride, and the
danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre

casing.
7 Regularly check the tyres for damage in the

form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Remove any nails or stones
embedded in the tread before they penetrate
the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail
does reveal that the tyre has been punctured,
refit the nail so that its point of penetration is

marked. Then immediately change the wheel,
and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Do
not drive on a tyre in such a condition. If in any
doubt as to the possible consequences of any
damage found, consult your local tyre dealer

for advice.
8 Periodically remove the wheels, and clean
any dirt or mud from the inside and outside
surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of
rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy

wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst

parking, and similarly steel wheels may
become dented or buckled. Renewal of the
wheel is very often the only course of remedial
action possible.
9 The balance of each wheel and tyre
assembly should be maintained to avoid
excessive wear, not only to the tyres but also
to the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration through the vehicle's bodyshell,
although in many cases it is particularly
noticeable through the steering wheel.
Conversely, it should be noted that wear or

damage in suspension or steering
components may cause excessive tyre wear.
Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged
wheels, and wheel bearing wear also fall into
this category. Balancing will not usually cure
vibration caused by such wear.

10 Wheel balancing may be carried out with

the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If

balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the
wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some
way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so

that it may be refitted in its original position.

11 General tyre wear is influenced to a large
degree by driving style - harsh braking and
acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce
more rapid tyre wear. Interchanging of tyres
may result in more even wear. However, if this
is completely effective, the added expense is
incurred of replacing all four tyres at once,
which may prove financially-restrictive for
many owners.
12 Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result
of wheel misalignment. The front wheels
should always be correctly aligned according

to the settings specified by the vehicle

manufacturer.
13 Legal restrictions apply to many aspects of

tyre fitting and usage, and in the UK this
information is contained in the Motor Vehicle
Construction and Use Regulations. It is

suggested that a copy of these regulations is
obtained from your local police, if in doubt as to
current legal requirements with regard to tyre
type and condition, minimum tread depth, etc.

1 Check the operation of all the electrical
equipment, ie lights, direction indicators, horn,
washers, etc. Refer to the appropriate
Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the
circuits are found to be inoperative.

2 Stop-light switch adjustment is described in
Chapter 9.
3 Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

Rectify any faults found.

8 Battery electrolyte level check

Caution: Before carrying out any
work on the vehicle battery, read
through the precautions given in
"Safety first!" at the beginning of
this manual.

1 The battery is located on the left-hand side of

the engine compartment. If the battery is of
standard or low-maintenance type, the
electrolyte level may be checked, and if neces-
sary topped-up. If it is of maintenance-free type,

it is not possible to check the electrolyte level.
2 Remove the cell covers from the top of the
battery.

1

•

8

Weekly checks

9.3 Removing the wiper blade from the

windscreen wiper arm

3 To remove a windscreen or tailgate wiper

blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass
until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°,
press the locking tab with your fingers, and
slide the blade out of the arm's hooked end
(see illustration). On refitting, ensure that the
blade locks securely into the arm.

4 To remove a headlight wiper blade, pull the
arm fully away from the headlight glass, then

9.4 Headlight wiper blade separated from

wiper arm

move it downwards until it is separated
from the arm (see illustration). On refitting,
check that the blade locks securely into the

arm.

5 Check that the windscreen washer jets
operate correctly, and direct the washer fluid
towards the upper area of the wiper blade
stroke. If necessary, use a pin to reposition the
washer jets.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

Note: Owners of high-mileage non-turbo

vehicles, or those who do a lot of stop-start
driving, may prefer to carry out engine oil and
filter renewal at 6000 mile/10 000 km intervals,

as specified for turbos, instead of at the normal

12 000 mile/20 000 km interval.

Frequent oil and filter changes
are the most important

preventative maintenance
procedures which can be

undertaken by the DIY owner. As
engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and
contaminated, which leads to

premature engine wear.

1 Before starting this procedure, gather

together all the necessary tools and materials.
Also make sure that you have plenty of clean

rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any
spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm,
as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge
will be removed with it. Take care, however,
not to touch the exhaust or any other hot
parts of the engine when working under the

vehicle.
2 To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to
protect yourself from possible skin irritants and
other harmful contaminants in used engine oils,

it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out

this work. Access to the underside of the
vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be
raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up
and supported on axle stands (see "Jacking,
towing and wheel changing"). Whichever

method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle
remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the
drain plug is at the lowest point.
3 Slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see
illustration). Position the draining container
under the drain plug, then remove the plug
completely. If possible, try to keep the plug
pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by
hand the last couple of turns. As the plug
releases from the threads, move it away

sharply so the stream of oil issuing from the
sump runs into the container, not up your

sleeve! Recover the sealing washer from the
drain plug.
4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,
noting that it may be necessary to reposition
the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle.
5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the
drain plug with a clean rag. Check the sealing
washer for condition, and renew it if
necessary. Clean the area around the drain
plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the
plug to the specified torque.
6 Move the container into position under the
oil filter. On the B202 engine (without balance
shafts) the filter is located on the rear right-
hand side of the cylinder block (see
illustration). On B204 and B234 engines (with
balance shafts) the filter is located on the front
right-hand side of the cylinder block.

10.3 Engine oil drain plug on the sump 10.6 The oil filter is located on the rear of

the cylinder block on the B202 engine

1 Clean the wiper blades and the windscreen,
using a solution of concentrated washer fluid

or methylated spirit. Similarly clean the
headlight lens and wiper blades.
2 Check the condition of the wiper blades; if
they are cracked or show any signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of
vision, windscreen wiper blades should be
renewed annually, as a matter of course. At
the same time, check the headlight wiper
blades (where fitted) for condition, and renew
if necessary.

3 Check that the level of electrolyte is
approximately 15 mm above the tops of the
cell plates.
4 If necessary top-up the level, using only
distilled or demineralised water.
5 Refit the cell covers.
6 Further information on the battery, charging
and jump-starting can be found in Chapter 5,
and in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

10.7 Removing the oil filter on a B204

engine

7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,
slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by
hand the rest of the way (see illustration).
Note that on the B204 and B234 engines, the
oil filter is located very close to the sump, and

it may not be possible to use a chain-type

removal tool to remove the filter. Use of a

strap-type removal tool is possible on these
engines. Empty the oil from the old filter into
the container, and discard the filter.
8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and
sludge from the filter sealing area on the
engine. Check the old filter to make sure that
the rubber sealing ring hasn't stuck to the
engine. If it has, carefully remove it.
9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to
the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it
into position on the engine. Tighten the filter

firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.
Wipe clean the filter and sump drain plug.

10 Remove the old oil and all tools from
under the car, then lower the car to the ground
(if applicable).
11 Remove the oil filler cap and withdraw the

dipstick from the top of the filler tube. Fill the
engine, using the correct grade and type of oil
(see "Lubricants, fluids and capacities"). An oil
can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage.
Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first,
then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the

sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a
time until the level is up to the lower mark on
the dipstick. Adding a further 1.0 litre will
bring the level up to the upper mark on the
dipstick. Insert the dipstick, and refit the filler
cap.
12 Start the engine and run it for a few
minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter
seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there
may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil
pressure warning light goes out when the

engine is first started, as the oil circulates
through the engine oil galleries and the new oil
filter, before the pressure builds up.
13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few
minutes for the oil to settle in the sump
once more. With the new oil circulated and
the filter completely full, recheck the
level on the dipstick, and add more oil as
necessary.
14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with
reference to "General repair procedures" in the
reference Sections of this manual.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

1 The antifreeze should always be maintained
at the specified concentration. This is
necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze
properties, but also to prevent corrosion which

would otherwise occur as the corrosion
inhibitors become progressively less effective.

2 The check should be made with the engine

cold, and it will be necessary to obtain an
antifreeze tester from a car accessory shop.

3 Slowly unscrew the cap from the top of the

coolant expansion tank, then draw coolant

into the tester. Check the concentration of the

antifreeze according to the manufacturer's

instructions. The most common tester

consists of three coloured balls of varying
density - a high concentration will cause all

three balls to float, whereas a low

concentration may only cause one ball to float.

4 If the concentration is incorrect, slight

adjustments may be made by drawing some
of the coolant out of the expansion tank and
replacing it with undiluted antifreeze. If the
concentration is excessively out, it will be

necessary to completely drain the system and

renew the solution (refer to Section 35).
5 Tighten the cap onto the expansion tank on

completion.

sophisticated checking equipment. Refer to
Chapter 10 for more information.
2 Before having the front wheel alignment
checked, all tyre pressures should be checked
and if necessary adjusted (see Section 4).

rag to wipe the cap and the surrounding area,
to prevent any foreign matter from entering the
reservoir. Unscrew and remove the filler cap
(see illustration).
5 Top-up if necessary with the specified
power steering fluid (see illustration). Be
careful not to introduce dirt into the system,
and do not overfill. Frequent topping-up
indicates a leak which should be investigated.

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located
on the right-hand side of the engine
compartment, behind the cooling system
expansion tank.

2 For the check, the front wheels should be
pointing straight-ahead and the engine should
be stopped. The car should be positioned on
level ground.
3 On some models, the markings on the side of
the reservoir indicate the "HOT" and "COLD"
checking levels. With the engine hot, the level
should be on the "HOT" mark, and vice-versa.
On other models, a "MIN" mark indicates the
effective cold level mark (see illustration).
4 Before removing the filler cap, use a clean

13.3 "MIN" cold level mark on the side of

the power steering fluid reservoir

1 Due to the special measuring equipment
necessary to check the wheel alignment
accurately, checking and adjustment is best

left to a Saab dealer or similar expert. Note

that most tyre-fitting shops now possess

13.4 Unscrewing the power steering fluid

reservoir filler cap

13.5 Topping-up the power steering fluid

level

1

•

9