Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus, Plymouth Breeze Haynes. Instruction - page 1

Chrysler

Cirrus

Dodge

Stratus

Plymouth

Breeze

Automotive

Repair

Manual

by Marc M Scribner
and John H Haynes

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered:
Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze
1995 through 2000

Haynes'

(10C 1 - 25015)

IM

TS H

Accm

MEMBER

ASSOCIATION

ABODE

FGHIJ

KLMN

Haynes Publishing Group
Sparkford Nr Yeovil
Somerset BA22 7JJ England
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive
Newbury Park
California 91320 USA

About this manual

Its purpose

must pass on to you to cover its labor and

The purpose of this manual is to help

overhead costs. An added benefit is the

you get the best value from your vehicle. It

sense of satisfaction and accomplishment

can do so in several ways. It can help you

that you feel after doing the job yourself.

decide what work must be done, even if you

Using the manual

choose to have it done by a dealer service
department or a repair shop; it provides infor-

The manual is divided into Chapters.

Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sec-
tions, which are headed in bold type between
horizontal lines. Each Section consists of
consecutively numbered paragraphs.

At the beginning of each numbered Sec-

tion you will be referred to any illustrations
which apply to the procedures in that Sec-
tion. The reference numbers used in illustra-
tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section
and the Step within that Section. That is,
illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to
Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

NOTE

A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will

make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION

A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the

procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly
being worked on.

WARNING

A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the

procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Chrysler Cirrus,
Dodge Stratus and Plymouth Breeze

The Chrysler Cirrus, Dodge Stratus and

injection system.

lateral links.

Plymouth Breeze models are four-door sedan

The engine transmits power to the front

The standard power rack and pinion

type body styles. They feature transversely

wheels through either a five-speed manual

steering unit is mounted behind the engine

mounted engines which were offered in three

transaxle or a four-speed automatic transaxle

on the front suspension crossmember. An

displacements; a 2.0 liter in-line four-cylinder

via independent driveaxles.

electronically

controlled

variable-assist

engine with a Single Overhead-Camshaft

All models feature an all steel unibody

speed-proportional power steering was avail-

(SOHC), a 2.4 liter in-line four-cylinder engine

design and independent front and rear sus-

able as an option, which provided maximum

with a Dual Overhead-Camshaft (DOHC) and

pension. The front suspension incorporates a

power steering at low vehicle speeds.

the 60-degree V6 six-cylinder engine with

shock absorber/coil spring assembly with

All models are equipped with power

Single Overhead-Camshafts (SONG) (one

upper and lower control arms, while the rear

assisted front disc and rear drum brakes with

over each cylinder head).

suspension utilizes a shock absorber/coil

an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) available as

All models are equipped with an elec-

spring assembly and upper control arm

an option.

tronically controlled multi-port electronic fuel

in combination with a trailing arm and

mation and procedures for routine mainte-
nance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic
and repair procedures to follow when trouble
occurs.

We hope you use the manual to tackle

the work yourself. For many simpler jobs,
doing it yourself may be quicker than arrang-
ing an appointment to get the vehicle into a
shop and making the trips to leave it and pick
it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be
saved by avoiding the expense the shop

that Section.

Procedures, once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it's neces-

sary to refer to another Chapter, the refer-
ence will be given as Chapter and Section

number. Cross references given without use

of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections
and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For
example, "see Section 8" means in the same
Chapter.

References to the left or right side of the

vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver's
seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this

manual with extreme care, neither the pub-
li sher nor the author can accept responsibility
for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-
mation given.

0-6

Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications are a continuing and

cate of Title and Registration. It contains

On the models covered by this manual the

unpublicized process in vehicle manufactur-

information such as where and when the

engine codes are:

ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are

vehicle was manufactured, the model year

C............................2.0L 4-cyl SOHC

compiled on a numerical basis, the individual

and the body style.

H............................ 2.5L V6 SOHC

vehicle numbers are essential to correctly

X............................ 2.4L 4-cyl DOHC

identify the component required.

VIN engine and model year

On the models covered by this manual the

Vehicle Identification Number

codes

model year codes are:

(VIN)

Two particularly important pieces of

very important identification num-

information found in the VIN are the engine

This

is

located on a plate attached to the

code and the model year code. Counting

ber
dashboard insi

d

e the windshield on the

from the left, the engine code letter designa-
tion is the 8th digit and the model year code

driver's side of the vehicle (see illustration).

designation is the 10th digit.

The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certifi -

S........................... 1995
T........................... 1996
V........................... 1997
W.......................... 1998
X........................... 1999
Y...........................2000

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is stamped into a metal

plate fastened to the dashboard on the driver's side - it's visible

through the windshield

The Body Code Plate is mounted to the right hand shock tower in

the engine compartment

Vehicle identification numbers

0-7

On 2.0L four-cylinder engines, the engine identification number is

stamped on the left rear of the engine block (behind the

starter motor)

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is affixed to the rear edge of

the driver's door

2.4L four-cylinder engine identification number locations

On V6 engines, the engine identification number is located on the

rear of the engine block just below the cylinder head

• OIL
FILTER

ENGINE

SERIAL NUMBER

AND VIN NUMBER

Body Code Plate

The Body Code Plate is a stamped metal

plate attached to the driver's side shock

tower in the engine compartment (see illus-
tration). It contains more specific information

about the manufacturing of the vehicle such
as the paint code, trim code and vehicle
order number, as well as the VIN.

Vehicle Safety Certification

label

The Vehicle Safety Certification label is

attached to the driver's side door end (see
illustration). The label contains the name of
the manufacturer, the month and year of pro-
duction, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine identification numbers

The 2.0L and 2.4L four-cylinder engine

identification numbers can be found stamped
on a machined pad on the left rear of the
engine block. 2.5L V6 engine identification is
located on the rear of the engine block just
below the cylinder head (see illustrations).

Transaxle

identification

numbers

The transaxle identification information

can be found on a bar code label located on

the front of the transaxle (see illustration).

Vehicle Emissions Control

Information (VECI) label

The emissions control information label

is found under the hood, normally on the
radiator support or the bottom side of the
hood. This label contains information on the

emissions control equipment installed on the
vehicle, as well as tune-up specifications (see
Chapter 6 for more information).

0-8

Buying parts

Replacement parts are available from

many sources, which generally fall into one of

two categories - authorized dealer parts
departments and independent retail auto

parts stores. Our advice concerning these
parts is as follows:

Retail auto parts stores: Good auto

parts stores will stock frequently needed
components which wear out relatively fast,
such as clutch components, exhaust sys-

tems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These

stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save
a considerable amount of money. Discount
auto parts stores are often very good places

to buy materials and parts needed for general

vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, fil-

ters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint,

bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and
general accessories, have convenient hours,
charge lower prices and can often be found
not far from home.

Authorized dealer parts department:

This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally avail-
able elsewhere (such as major engine parts,
transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

Warranty information: If the vehicle is

still covered under warranty, be sure that any
replacement parts purchased - regardless of
the source - do not invalidate the warranty!

To be sure of obtaining the correct

parts, have engine and chassis numbers
available and, if possible, take the old parts
along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques,

tools and working facilities

Maintenance techniques

There are a number of techniques

involved in maintenance and repair that will
be referred to throughout this manual. Appli-
cation of these techniques will enable the
home mechanic to be more efficient, better
organized and capable of performing the var-
ious tasks properly, which will ensure that the
repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners

Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and

screws used to hold two or more parts
together. There are a few things to keep in
mind when working with fasteners. Almost all
of them use a locking device of some type,
either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or
thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners
should be clean and straight, with undam-
aged threads and undamaged corners on the
hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the
habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts
with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or
fiber inserts can only be used once. If they
are removed, they lose their locking ability
and must be replaced with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated

with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and

prevent breakage. Some mechanics use tur-
pentine in a spout-type oil can, which works

quite well. After applying the rust penetrant,

let it work for a few minutes before trying to
loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners
may have to be chiseled or sawed off or
removed with a special nut breaker, available

at tool stores.

If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assem-

bly, it can be drilled and removed with a spe-
cial tool commonly available for this purpose.

Most automotive machine shops can perform
this task, as well as other repair procedures,
such as the repair of threaded holes that
have been stripped out.

Flat washers and lockwashers, when

removed from an assembly, should always
be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any

damaged washers with new ones. Never use
a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such
as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Metric stud strength markings

00-1

HAYNES

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade 8

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 5

Standard hex nut

strength markings

Metric hex nut

strength markings

Grade

Identification

3 Dots

6 Dots

Hex Nut

Grade 5

Hex Nut

Grade 8

Class

10.9

Class

9.8

Class

8.8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-9

Metric thread sizes

Ft-lbs
6to9

Nm
9to12

M-6 ...............................................................
M-8 ...............................................................

14to21

19to28

M-10.............................................................

28to40

38to54

M-12.............................................................

50 to 71

68 to 96

M-14.............................................................

80 to 140

109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes

5to8

7to10

1 /8 ................................................................
1 /4................................................................

12 to 18

17 to 24

3/8................................................................

22 to 33

30 to 44

1 /2 ................................................................

25 to 35

34 to 47

U.S. thread sizes

6to9

9to12

1/4-20.........................................................
5/16 - 18 .......................................................

12to18

17to24

5/16 - 24 .......................................................

14 to 20

19 to 27

3/8 - 16.........................................................

22 to 32

30 to 43

3/8 - 24.........................................................

27 to 38

37 to 51

7/16 - 14 .......................................................

40 to 55

55 to 74

7/16-20 .......................................................

40 to 60

55 to 81

1 /2 - 13.........................................................

55 to 80

75 to 108

Fastener sizes

For a number of reasons, automobile

manufacturers are making wider and wider
use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is impor-
tant to be able to tell the difference between
standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and
metric hardware, since they cannot be inter-
changed.

All bolts, whether standard or metric, are

sized according to diameter, thread pitch and

length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1
bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per
inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25
metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread
pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between

threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are

nearly identical, and easily confused, but they

are not interchangeable.

In addition to the differences in diame-

ter, thread pitch and length, metric and stan-
dard bolts can also be distinguished by
examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the
distance across the flats on a standard bolt

head is measured in inches, while the same

dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime-
ters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a
standard wrench should not be used on a

metric bolt and a metric wrench should not
be used on a standard bolt. Also, most stan-
dard bolts have slashes radiating out from

the center of the head to denote the grade or

strength of the bolt, which is an indication of

the amount of torque that can be applied to

it. The greater the number of slashes, the
greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0

through 5 are commonly used on automo-

biles. Metric bolts have a property class
(grade) number, rather than a slash, molded
into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In

this case, the higher the number, the stronger
the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and

10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.

Strength markings can also be used to

distinguish standard hex nuts from metric
hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots
stamped into one side, while metric nuts are
marked with a number. The greater the num-
ber of dots, or the higher the number, the
greater the strength of the nut.

Metric studs are also marked on their

ends according to property class (grade).
Larger studs are numbered (the same as
metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geo-
metric code to denote grade.

It should be noted that many fasteners,

especially Grades 0 through 2, have no dis-
tinguishing marks on them. When such is the
case, the only way to determine whether it is
standard or metric is to measure the thread
pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the
same size.

Standard fasteners are often referred to

as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it
should be noted that SAE technically refers to
a non-metric fine thread fastener only.
Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are
referred to as USS sizes.

Since fasteners of the same size (both

standard and metric) may have different

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts,
studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in
their original locations. Also, when replacing
a fastener with a new one, make sure that the
new one has a strength rating equal to or
greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and
procedures

Most threaded fasteners should be

tightened to a specific torque value (torque is
the twisting force applied to a threaded com-
ponent such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening
the fastener can weaken it and cause it to
break, while undertightening can cause it to
eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and
studs, depending on the material they are

made of and their thread diameters, have
specific torque values, many of which are
noted in the Specifications at the beginning
of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque
recommendations closely. For fasteners not
assigned a specific torque, a general torque
value chart is presented here as a guide.
These torque values are for dry (unlubricated)
fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not
aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the
size and grade of a fastener determine the
amount of torque that can safely be applied
to it. The figures listed here are approximate
for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher
grades can tolerate higher torque values.

Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as

cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential
cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

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Standard (SAE and USS) bolt

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

dimensions/grade marks

P

Property class (bolt strength)

G

Grade marks

(bolt strength)

L

Length (in millimeters)

L

Length (in inches)

T

Thread pitch (distance between

T

Thread pitch (number of threads per

threads in millimeters)

inch)

D

Diameter

D

Nominal diameter (in inches)

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Micrometer set

ened in sequence to avoid warping the com-
ponent. This sequence will normally be
shown

in

the appropriate Chapter. If a spe-

cific pattern is not given, the following proce-
dures can be used to prevent warping.

Initially, the bolts or nuts should be

assembled finger-tight only. Next, they
should be tightened one full turn each, in a
criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each
one has been tightened one full turn, return to

the first one and tighten them all one-half
turn, following the same pattern. Finally,
tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a
ti me until each fastener has been tightened to
the proper torque. To loosen and remove the
fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly

Component disassembly should be

done with care and purpose to help ensure
that the parts go back together properly.
Always keep track of the sequence in which
parts are removed. Make note of special
characteristics or marks on parts that can be
installed more than one way, such as a
grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good
idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a
clean surface in the order that they were
removed. It may also be helpful to make
sketches or take instant photos of compo-
nents before removal.

When removing fasteners from a com-

ponent, keep track of their locations. Some-
ti mes threading a bolt back in a part, or
putting the washers and nut back on a stud,
can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts
cannot be returned to their original locations,
they should be kept in a compartmented box
or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muf-
fin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each
cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a par-

ticular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover

bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this

type is especially helpful when working on

assemblies with very small parts, such as the
carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior
dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be
marked with paint or tape to identify the con-

tents.

Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or

connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered pieces
of masking tape so they can be easily recon-
nected.

Gasket sealing surfaces

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are

used to seal the mating surfaces between
two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum
or pressure contained in an assembly.

Many times these gaskets are coated

with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing
compound before assembly. Age, heat and
pressure can sometimes cause the two parts

to stick together so tightly that they are very

difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can
be loosened by striking it with a soft-face
hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular
hammer can be used if a block of wood is
placed between the hammer and the part. Do
not hammer on cast parts or parts that could
be easily damaged. With any particularly
stubborn part, always recheck to make sure

that every fastener has been removed.

Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry

apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the
gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which

must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely

necessary, use an old broom handle, but
keep in mind that extra clean up will be nec-
essary if the wood splinters.

After the parts are separated, the old

gasket must be carefully scraped off and the
gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket
material can be soaked with rust penetrant or
treated with a special chemical to soften it so
it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be
fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by
flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is
recommended because it is usually softer
than the surfaces to be scraped, which
reduces the chance of gouging the part.
Some gaskets can be removed with a wire
brush, but regardless of the method used,
the mating surfaces must be left clean and
smooth. If for some reason the gasket sur-

face is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick

enough to fill scratches will have to be used
during reassembly of the components. For
most applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry-
ing) gasket sealer should be used.

Dial indicator set

Hose removal tips

Warning: If the vehicle is equipped with air
conditioning, do not disconnect any of the
A/C hoses without first having the system
depressurized by a dealer service department
or a service station.

Hose removal precautions closely paral-

lel

gasket removal precautions. Avoid

scratching or gouging the surface that the
hose mates against or the connection may
leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses.
Because of various chemical reactions, the
rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal
spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a
hose, first loosen the hose clamps that
secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint
pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate
it around the spigot. Work it back and forth
until it is completely free, then pull it off. Sili-
cone or other lubricants will ease removal if
they can be applied between the hose and
the outside of the spigot. Apply the same
lubricant to the inside of the hose and the
outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a last resort (and if the hose is to be

replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber
can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled

from the spigot. If this must be done, be

careful that the metal connection is not dam-
aged.

If a hose clamp is broken or damaged,

do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually
weaken with age, so it is a good idea to

replace them with screw-type clamps when-

ever a hose is removed.

Tools

A selection of good tools is a basic

requirement for anyone who plans to main-
tain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the
owner who has few tools, the initial invest-
ment might seem high, but when compared
to the spiraling costs of professional auto
maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools

are needed to perform the tasks detailed in
this manual, the following tool lists are
offered: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair/overhaul and Special.

The newcomer to practical mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-11

Dial caliper

Hand-operated vacuum pump

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug

hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool